Equipment

My Not Nearly Complete, But Rather Entertaining, Circular Polarizer Filter Article

Published September 15, 2017

So, a while back I wrote a not quite complete article on UV filters. To do that, I had to buy new testing equipment and learn to test filters. This was not what I wanted to do when I grew up. But somebody has to do it, and I did get to buy new toys.

More importantly, Tyler (Who handles the purchasing) asked me why, many years ago, I chose the Circular Polarizing filters that Lensrentals stocked. A better person than me would have confessed that I’ve never known the first thing about Circular Polarizers; that I just bought the most expensive to be our ‘best’ and the cheapest to be our ‘basic.’ But instead, I just said, “Well, we should do some scientific-type testing and a more thorough evaluation now.”

Like a metaphor for my life, the results ended up being the opposite of what I expected. I thought if we found tons of differences testing simple clear and UV filters, there would be many more differences in more complex polarizing filters. So today, instead of showing you amazing differences between the various brands, I’ll just save you some money on your next CP filter purchase. That should work out for both of us: you save money, I get a shorter blog post.

I should mention our methodology has improved somewhat since we did our first filter article. I used a red laser to measure transmission then, and several people made the very reasonable suggestion that a green laser might be a better choice, being in the middle of the spectrum and all. Other people said I should get a spectrometer and measure the entire spectrum. So I did both of those things.

This should give you some hints about me as a person. If someone asks me to test a lens at a different aperture, I have a screaming fit about testing taking up a few hours of my time. Someone suggests I spend $15,000 on new equipment, and I’m like, “Yeah, great idea, that would be cool to have.”

Finally, I had no intention of testing every polarizing filter on the market. I did what I usually do; bought the ones B&H Photo had in stock in 77mm size. So we’re going to compare, in no particular order, except alphabetical, with the current price for a 77mm:

  • B&W XS-Pro High-Transmission Circular Polarizer MRC-Nano         $102
  • Heliopan Circular Polarizer                                                                          $200
  • Marumi EXUS Circular Polarizer Filter                                                     $140
  • Sigma Water Repellent Circular Polarizing Filter                                   $150
  • Tiffen Ultra Pol Circular Polarizing Filter                                                 $103
  • Zeiss T* Circular Polarizing Filter                                                               $180

So, About the Polarizing Part

If you’re thinking about buying a circular polarizing filter, you probably want to know which ones polarize the best and which ones the worst, right? I know I did. Now we could have just gone outside and taken pictures in the bright sun and said this one’s good and that one’s bad. But we never do anything simple when we can complicate the crap out of it.

So what we did was take our laser transmission set up and modified it a bit. Primarily, this shines a laser into a power meter and gets a reading. Then we can stick mostly transparent stuff in the beam and see how much it reduces the power reaching the meter. Excellent lasers are almost entirely polarized, but I have a budget, and that budget didn’t include (much to my sorrow) $10,000 for the lab-grade, steel-melting laser I wanted. I got a little 5-mwatt green (530 nm) diode laser.

It’s sort of polarized. So we shined that laser through two sheets of polarizing film, each of which have a 1,000:1 polarizing extinction ratio. So basically, the light that passed through the film was really, really polarized. Then we put the filter in the beam of polarized light to see how much light it let through in the open position. For now, we’ll just call it ‘most of the light.’ Finally, we moved the lens to the polarizing position, which should have blocked all of our polarizing light if the filters were really effective.

Circular Polarizing Filters Test Circular Polarizing Filters Test

Here’s where I expected to put a table showing how efficient the polarizers were. Instead, I’ll just tell you that all of the polarizers we tested blocked all of the light, within our capabilities of measurement. They were all at least 99.9% efficient at doing their job, polarizing light. There’s something you don’t see very often; a photography product that completely does what it says it will do.

Also About the Glass

When we tested UV filters, we found several for which the glass wasn’t flat. We repeated the test on all of the CP filters, and all passed with flying colors, so I won’t bore you with repeating it. Again, my expectation was with two pieces of glass we might see more, not less, bad glass. But no, they all passed just fine. That may be that better glass is used in CP filters, or the polarizing effect evens things out. I don’t know. But they all passed just fine.

What About Light Transmission?

If you’ve ever used a CP filter you are probably aware that even when not polarizing it absorbs some light. You should be aware of this because, well, it’s darker when you look through it. We thought it would be worthwhile to see how much light it does absorb.

Why? Well, partly because we had that laser transmission bench already set up, but mostly because two of these filters claim to let more than 99% of light through. The Marumi claims it lets 99.4% of light through, and the B&W High transmission says it passes through 99.5%.

No, I’m not a rocket scientist, I’m just a regular scientist. But high-tech scientific principles tell me that since everything looks a bit dark when looking through these CP filters, it’s unlikely that more than 99% of the light is passing through the filter. But maybe that’s just me being cynical. Or maybe there are alternative facts that say darker isn’t the same as less light.

Anyway, since I was rather fired up and my BS meter was pegged at full maximum, we removed the linear polarizers and measured absolute transmission for each filter in the non-polarizing position. If you remember, when we tested clear filters the best let 99% of light through, the worst was down around 90%.

The transmission results for CP filters were:

FilterTransmission
Marumi91%
B&W88%
Sigma68%
Zeiss66%
Heliopan58%
Tiffen55%

Now, the Marumi and B&W are nowhere close to 99% transmission, but I will admit that they did indeed have higher transmissions than the others.

Some, probably most, people don’t care about how much ND effect their circular polarizer has, and if they do they may well not want the higher transmission variety, they’d prefer a bit more light blocking. After all, if you need a circular polarizer, you probably are shooting where there is lots of bright sunlight. But the takeaway message is that higher transmission filters do tend to give more transmission. Just not as much as is claimed.

Let There Be Spectrometry

And so, in the days after the first article, the people spoke as one and said, “You show us but one wavelength of light, yet there are as many wavelengths as there are fish in the sea. Give us spectrometry, that we may see the effect on all manner of wavelengths, each unto its own kind. And make the graphs brightly colored.” 

It’s taken several weeks for us to get things calibrated and running, but this post seems a good place to start using our new spectrometer. We know that some polarizers give a bit of color cast, especially when polarizing, so we thought it would be interesting to see look at their transmission spectra.

We looked at transmission both in the open and polarizing position and did not see any changes with these polarizers. I’m told there are some that do have a color change with polarizing. I’m only showing you one spectrometry report for each filter, to keep this short post short. Also, don’t put much stock in the absolute transmission between the filters. We weren’t testing for absolute transmission since we’d already done it; we just wanted to look at the curves.

The High-Transmission CPs

The Marumi and B&W filters have similar transmissions and very similar spectra. Both tend to have some UV filtering activity and drop off a little bit at the blue end of the spectrum.

Marumi

Olaf Optical Testing, 2017

B&W

Olaf Optical Testing, 2017

The Standard CPs

These all have a stronger Neutral Density effect than the first two, and their spectra are different, too. The Sigma, Zeiss, and Heliopan filters are all very similar with a bit more transmission at the blue end of the spectrum and a bit less in the red-yellow range. The Tiffen has a similar pattern, although maybe a tiny bit more of a green peak.

Sigma

Olaf Optical Testing, 2017

 

Zeiss T*

Olaf Optical Testing, 2017

 

Heliopan Digital

Olaf Optical Testing, 2017

 

 

Tiffen

Olaf Optical Testing, 2017

 

So What Did We Discover Today?

Well, several things, one of which is really useful. So I’ll get that one out of the way first, and then let this post just steadily deteriorate. If you are buying a circular polarizing filter because you want some circular polarizing, it doesn’t seem to matter much which one you choose; they all polarize like gangbusters. So I saved you some money today.

The second point, one which I’ve been told before I did all this testing, is set the white balance after you put the CP filter on, not before. Because CP filters will have a color cast. Or just shoot in raw and fix it later, which is what we mostly do anyway.

There is a third point, and it’s a painful one:

Once Again, Roger Lets Technology Triumph over Common Sense

I didn’t want to test filters; I really didn’t. But people wanted me to. So I chewed up my testing equipment budget to buy laser transmission stuff and an optical spectrometer, spent a few weeks getting everything calibrated and establishing norms, and then a couple of days testing these CP filters. I did this in clear violation of Roger’s Third Law: No Good Deed Goes Unpunished.

After I was done, I told Aaron I had just documented that CP filters had different light transmission percentages and different color casts. And that high transmission filters had one look, and it was different than regular CP filters, which all were really similar. Because I was proud that my investment in time and money had paid off.

Aaron took the filters from me, put them on a piece of paper, took this picture with his cell phone, and said, “Yeah, you’re right.”

 

 

Oh, and BTW – I know what you’re thinking. Yes, I’m going to publish spectrometry reports on the clear and UV filters we tested in the last article. Next week, I promise. I need a few days to recover my pride.

Roger Cicala and Aaron Closz

Lensrentals.com

September, 2017

Addendum: MTF testing

Several people made the very pertinent comment that they would expect some effect in sharpness and contrast. FWIW I took a moderate telephoto, very sharp lens (Batis 135mm f/2.8) and MTF tested it first with no filter, then with a B&W Multi-coated clear filter, then 4 of the CP polarizing filters we tested above.

The clear filter made absolutely no MTF difference.

All tested polarizers (B&W, Marumi, Zeiss, Tiffen Ultra, and Helipan) caused a slight decrease in MTF at high frequencies. There was no detectable change at 10 and 20 lp/mm. At 30 lp/mm there was a consistent 1-2% drop, at 50 lp it was about 4%. All of these CP filters were very similar, I could detect no difference between them.

This is a quick, off-the-cuff check. I’ll look at things in more depth when I have time. But the bottom line is fine detail in photos is affected a bit. I don’t find that the least bit surprising.

I’ve also ordered a couple of $40 filters and we’ll see how those compare.

Author: Roger Cicala

I’m Roger and I am the founder of Lensrentals.com. Hailed as one of the optic nerds here, I enjoy shooting collimated light through 30X microscope objectives in my spare time. When I do take real pictures I like using something different: a Medium format, or Pentax K1, or a Sony RX1R.

Posted in Equipment
  • Brian F Leighty

    Hi Roger. Great article. Just thought I’d point out something not covered here. So I had a cheaper Tiffen polarizer filter at first. I eventually upgraded to a much nicer B+W one. The main reason for this wasn’t the amount of polarization being better but rather the Tiffen had a large loss of contrast I assume do to flare because it wasn’t multicoated

  • Brandon Dube

    We could 3D print if Olaf had a 3D printer. A good one for plastics is in the low thousands, one for metals is in the… high thousands? tens of thousands? A tip/tilt mount for the laser is $200, which for the time being is the right financial move for a young, financially bootstrapped research company. A larger area of the filter would be nice, but spending circa $10k to expand and then compress the beam after the filter is too expensive — that laser bench is ~$1000 in parts including the power meter.

    The spectrometer is supplied light by a TL SLS201L with FGT-200 color balancing filter, which is sent through the filter collimated. Its angular and spatial spectrum is then destroyed by an integrating sphere, which has a fiber coupling on one of the ports to the spec.

  • Steven Dean

    I’ve spent a considerable amount of your tax dollars at Thorlabs, Newport and Edmund Optics (I prefer Thorlabs for most optomechanics). If you don’t have gov. funds you can 3D print a lot of optomechanics to save quite a bit of money, lots of plans on Thingiverse under the tag . There’s a project out of Michigan Tech to democratize a great deal of lab equipment through additive manufacturing. https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:open_source_optics

    I bring it up because you need two kinematic mounts and an iris to get a laser going straight (laser on one kinematic and a mirror on another, see “walking the beam”). Setting up a beam expander would be good too, so your laser goes through a larger area of the CP. Then focus it back on to your power meter.

    What light source are you using for the spectroscopy measurements?

  • Roger, …So,…you’ve taken a completely boring scientific subject and turned it into a completely intriquing and enjoyable read and saved us all some $$$$, thank you. My wife says ‘he’s the best’ and she should know b/c she’s also a scientist. The only experience I wanted to add to this is Breakthrough Photography’s CP filters have the best knurled framing you’d ever need on a filter and appear to product ‘0’ color casts. They’re not the cheapest but the best in my experience. Loved this article, thanks, or,….oh, yeah.

  • I know. And that I generally shouldn’t start them with ‘and’. Or ‘or’.
    But I’m from the South. I’m doing good not to start each article with “Y’all pay attention, now, ya’ hear?”

  • Franck Mée

    Thanks a lot for the info! Have a nice day!

  • Good point Trenton and I should have mentioned it in the article. We tested these 5 at both non and polarized and other than absolute value the color profile didn’t change. I know there are many that do, though.

  • David, we have to change things a bit and reset controls to do IR, which we probably will one day. Unless my ADD finds another shiny new toy to play with.

  • Franck I did the 200mm pinhole test on all of these and they passed easily. I didn’t put in the pics because things were getting long.

  • Phillip Reeve

    Thanks again Roger for a very entertaining read and for being the photo tech geek your are!

  • Daryl

    Roger, the filters that drive me crazy are the high nd, 10 stop. B+w let’s in IR, the Big Stopper by Lee corrects that nicely but goes overly blue. Format Hitech does the best at neutrality in my limited testing. Would be interested in your test results with ND filters and also would like to see Format Hitech added to the field of UV, CP etc. Also, thanks for all this info on filters and your very entertaining writings.

  • Franck Mée

    Hi Roger,
    fascinating and good-to-know indeed.
    Now, how about some OLAF dispersion pictures, like you did for UV and protective filters? Especially in the long-focal range (I’d LOVE to find a polarizing filter for my 500mm to go try and shoot aircraft, but the one I tried was garbage past 200mm).
    Yeah, always asking for more, that’s what we readers do. Sorry! 😉
    Thanks again for all this work, have a nice week-end.

  • David Bateman

    I like your last section, that is science. Aaron and you know there is a difference, however you know by how much.
    Question, how far a range can you spectrometer go? So, all be it a small group, want to know which cp still work in the IR spectrum. Most seem to not work at all above 700nm, if you get the curves, you will see a hard fall off. But there do seem to be some rare cp that work in the IR spectrum. Would be cool if you showed the curves out to 1000nm.
    Thanks,
    David

  • Tig Tillinghast

    This reminds me of the (8 years old) excellent article over at Lenstip… https://www.lenstip.com/115.4-article-Polarizing_filters_test_Results_and_summary.html, where they tested lots of filters. A similar conclusion: price was NOT a good indicator of quality. They also found that Marumi was about the best bang for buck, so that’s consistent. Finally, they found in testing lots and lots of filters that some were even not actually circular polarizers at all. May have had a few counterfeits make their way in.

    Transmission was generally lower than in your sample, and there was much more cast, and not as consistent polarizing happening.

    I’ve stuck with Marumi ever since.

  • One crucial measurement is missing: color shift with the actual polarization.
    There’s not much you can do in post if your CPL paints the soft reflections in odd colors.

    A yellow-blue polarizer is an extreme example, but most (if not all) of the polarizers change a tint of the polarized light differently depending on rotation.

  • HenWin

    Roger, as a journalist, you should know that you shouldn’t start any sentence with “So…”. It’s bad form…. Now I have to read the rest of the article…….

  • Well, it will on the “Ever So Massive UV Filter Spectrometry Article” that comes next. But see, I made a light shield out o some cardboard boxes. While effective, it was, shall we say, not esthetically pleasing. The Black Board came today and after I’ve made a nice professional looking enclosure, Brandon’s Spectrometer will be featured.

  • Brandon Dube

    *sheds tear* I go through all this work to design a spectrometer for imaging or nonimaging optics, and it doesn’t even get a picture in the blog post 🙁

    #PayAttentionToTheMachineBehindTheCurtain

  • Robert Stone

    Would be interested in findings for the UV and CP filters that B&H gives away with a lens purchase. I suspect these just might perform according to your initial expectations.

  • Thanks Evan. Fixed that.

  • Correct Alan. Sigh. Fixing that too.

  • Johannes Dahlström

    50% transmission should equal one stop drop in light, right? 90% is about 1/6 of a stop.

  • donpedro

    Excellent, now you can do transmission curves when you test lenses, too! Aren’t you glad you made this investment, Roger?

  • Alan B

    I’m gonna guess that laser is 5 mW, not 5 W

  • Thomas Geist

    It looks like the Marumi might be similar to the Kenko Zéta EX (or same) which can be had for an amazingly low price. These also rotate better than any other brand I tried. And aren’t they all made by Hoya?

    I recently cracked a Hoya HD3 that cost me an arm & a leg and I replaced it with a Zéta for about 1/4 the price. Couldn’t be happier.

    Concerning stuck filters:
    sometimes when all other means fail (including using an oil filter wrench), temperature can solve the problem. Cool the lens with the stuck filter down some (fridge) or heat it up some (just some mild warmth) and the different expansion of the lens and filter ring can all of a sudden make the filter come of smoothly.

  • Roger Cicala

    Thank you, Evan. Fixed that. Craig – you missed one 🙂

  • Evan McClane

    Great article, and lol at the conclusion. Just a quick note, you seem to have referred to the B+W filter as a Zeiss in the paragraph titled “The High-Transmission CPs.”

  • Craig, it’s at most a stop, I believe. And I know exactly what you mean about the stuck filters, we have that happen all the time. We tested low profile ones, but thicker are available. Kind of away from your point, but the Murami filters did get our attention by how smoothly they rotated. It was noticeably smoother than the others.

  • Sean T

    Fascinating, thank you Roger. No idea what I’m going to do with this information (aside from ignoring folks who say you have to spend lots of money to get the best), but I appreciate your work anyway.

  • Craig

    Roger, excellent post – and I didn’t notice any typos either! (I’m the one who often sent you corrections).

    Personally I use Nikon CP’s, because I had a couple of bad Tiffens once, and I rather like the plastic cases NIkon CP’s come in.

    I have one, practical question. Those high transmission models look very intriguing to me. How much of an F stop does that transmission difference amount to? I don’t want big amounts of ND on my filters. F2.8 is slow enough already, not to mention the F4 lens I might be using.

    A less important question: How thick are the rotating rings on these filters. (All of them). I have one B&W slim CP, and it’s a bear to get loose if I have it on too tight. Nothing to grab onto.

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