Teardown of the Nikon Z7 Mirrorless Camera

Published October 30, 2018

We published our teardown of the Canon EOS-R and then had to decide which of the Nikon Z cameras to do. We decided to go with the top-end Nikon Z7. The Nikon Z6 would be the more appropriate comparison from a price standpoint; the Nikon Z6 is retailing for $2145, the Canon EOS-R for $2299, and the Nikon Z7 for $3545. (FWIW, the Sony A7R III splits the difference, at $3,000.) But we had a Z7 and didn’t have a Z6. And honestly, I was more interested in what the top-end camera looked like inside.

Yes, I know fanboys are going to go berserk about it being an unfair comparison, but fanboys are going to get upset no matter what I do. Nikon shooters will legitimately wish I’d compared both the Z6 and Z7 to help with decision making. I’ll probably crack a Z6 open just to peak at differences when we get them, but I probably won’t make a full tear down.

I also want to mention that the good guys at Kolarivision (I highly recommend them, BTW, should you ever want an IR conversion) have already done a Z7 teardown. I think the two teardowns will complement each other. They give you a great look at the sensor assembly, because removing sensor assemblies all day is what they do, so we just left that alone. We’re going to focus more on the other parts of the camera because repairing dead cameras (and looking for weak points) is what we do. We won’t take out the sensor because I have too much to do, and that part is already done well by Kolarivision.

Nikon Z7 Teardown

Well, the first difference comes early: the viewfinder rubber is clip-on, where the Canon’s was attached with screws. You guys can go ahead argue for a few hours about which is better or worse; I don’t think it matters., 2018


Opening the doors and looking around shows a lot of weather-resisting gaskets everywhere. There is more robust door sealing than we saw on either the Canon EOS R or the Sony A7RIII., 2018


While the Canon had a new type of bracket for their fully rotating LCD, the Nikon has a tilting LCD with standard bracketing that we’ve seen on numerous cameras. It’s tried-and-true, I have no worries about it; tilt brackets are less stressed than rotating-tilting brackets., 2018


Anyway, with external inspection out of the way, we started taking out the obvious screws., 2018


And removing the grip rubber. Another thing that makes absolutely no difference to anyone but us, but we got spoiled with Canon’s new adhesive. Nikon uses more of a ‘you ain’t getting this off without a fight and a heat gun’ adhesive. Kind of a pain for disassembly/reassembly, but the strong adhesive, along with lots of overlapping edges covered by the grip rubber is kind of impressive. In many places the plastic shell doesn’t just interlock; it overlaps, screws together and then is covered with rubber grip and adhesive. That should not only give a superior weather seal, but it’s also probably giving some added strength to the assembly., 2018


Nikon cameras tend to want the bottom plate removed before going on to other things, so we started there., 2018


Those of you who read a lot of my teardowns know that my life revolves around mocking Nikon for having actual wires (how 80’s) winding hither and yon in the camera. I’m pleased to see they’ve obviously been listening to me because the first thing we see is a wire neatly held in a bracket. The white color makes me think it’s a WiFi antenna wire., 2018


The bottom plate, again, has thick weather gaskets both around the edges and at the tripod mount., 2018


The tripod mounting plate itself is OK, but certainly neither as robust as, nor is the screw insert as long as the Canon. When will this matter? Probably never, but I would be careful not to insert an overly long tripod plate or accessory screw on this camera; you might pop the top of the socket off., 2018


With grips off and screws out, the back panel and LCD assembly slide right off., 2018


And at this point, things look much like any Nikon SLR disassembly. You can see the end of that white wire inserting into a plug on the PCB which confirms its WiFiness., 2018


And let me give props where they are due: there is not a soldered wire to be seen, flexes are neatly laid out, and runs are short. It’s an immaculate and thoughtful design., 2018


Let’s also praise some thorough weather sealing. Here you see it along the top., 2018


And here along the sides., 2018


And, of course, the buttons are all well sealed. I think we can safely assume that all cameras have well-sealed buttons these days, but the Nikon Z7 has great sealing everywhere we looked., 2018


With the bottom and back off we can get a nice look up from the bottom at the various boards. If you compare it from a similar view of the Canon EOS R near the end of that post, you can see that there’s a lot less air in the Nikon, mostly because there’s a lot of IBIS in there., 2018


Next step is taking out the EVF. There are very few things I didn’t like about this camera from a reliability standpoint, but one was the diopter adjustment knob. In some ways it’s very nice – you have to pull it out to adjust it, which is good. But when it is pulled out, it feels rather weak and overly flexible. Who cares? Only me. You’ll only adjust this once in a great while and never have a problem. But my theoretical purpose here is to find out what’s likely to break on a rental unit. This will get adjusted with every rental and I suspect we’ll see some breakage here., 2018


I got irritable (irritable – the feeling I get when I’m nervous) when we were trying to pop off the makeup plug to get to the screw inside. Aaron would try to pry up the makeup plug. The diopter knob would pop out and bend like a palm tree in a hurricane. Aaron: Hold the knob for me. Roger: You are prying with a scalpel. Not happening., 2018


Eventually, (I held the knob with some forceps) the diopter adjustment knob was removed (no fingers or camera parts were damaged during the disassembly) and the EVF came right out. Again, a big, thick moisture seal sits under the adjustment knob. Had I held the knob with my fingers, this would have prevented my blood from getting deep into the camera., 2018


Removing a few more screws let us take the main PCB off., 2018


As mentioned earlier, it’s neatly laid out and not particularly crowded., 2018


The underside shows the XQD card slot and the ports are all soldered on. The audio plug jacks are on a separate sub-board. That’s the date-time battery in the upper right. In the early days, we used to worry about where the battery was because you’d have to change them after a couple of years. It’s not an issue with modern batteries., 2018


With the board out you can look down at the sensor / IBIS assembly. It’s noticeably more compact, has less travel than the Sony system, and seems more robust. From our focus on repair, we see this as a good thing – early Sony IBIS systems would sometimes move enough to jam and/or break. (To be clear, that’s not an issue with newer Sony cameras. I point this out just to show that the manufacturers have been watching each other.), 2018


Certainly, the adjusting posts, which support the entire assembly, are robust; at least the equal to the Canon EOS R., 2018

I should also point out that both Canon and Nikon have used infinitely adjustable spring-over-screw systems to correct sensor-to-flange tilt. Sony uses a shimmed post. In theory, at least, the step-wise adjustment of shims can’t be as accurate as an infinite adjustment; whether the technique actually results in less sensor-to-flange tilt, I do not know. I could imagine, though, that with a wider lens mount, and the narrow depth of field of f/1.2 lenses, sensor-to-mount tilt might require more accuracy.

We took off the port cover next. I won’t show a close-up, but you can make out foam sealing around the release button, and we saw the sealing around the edge that meshes with the back assembly earlier., 2018


Here are the mic and audio out plugs on their separate board., 2018


The port bracket certainly looks up to the task of keeping the audio ports from pulling out, but I’m not sure it does much to prevent, the more common and severe problem of pulling the HDMI port off of the board. Still, all protection is good protection., 2018


Finally, we removed the top assembly. By the way, the magnesium frame you now see is fairly thick, stiff, and heavy., 2018


The usual electronic complexity of all top assemblies is there. And as usual, we aren’t going to spend hours taking it apart., 2018


But I will show yet another close-up of the really impressive weather sealing., 2018


Just in case I haven’t made my point, a couple of more pictures of ‘if there’s an edge, there’s a weather seal’ in this camera., 2018, 2018


I’ll leave you with one last shot of the sensor / IBIS/frame assembly. Not a lot of air in this one, but a lot of really strong looking supports and connections., 2018


This is not marketing department weather resistance. This is engineering department weather resistance. Anything that can be sealed has been sealed. I’m impressed, and I will say for future cut-and-paste blurbs: this is as robustly weather sealed a camera as we’ve ever disassembled.

I don’t believe in weather resistance myself. I believe like life; water will find a way. I believe in plastic baggies and rubber bands. I am, however, a great believer in the idea that if you claim to do something, then damn well do it right. This is done right.

I’m impressed by the very solid construction of the chassis and IBIS unit. I’m impressed with the neat, modern engineering of the electrical connections. Yes, I’m aware that soldered wires carry electricity just fine, but to me, there’s something reassuring about seeing neat, well thought out, 2018 level engineering.

I’m not here to tell you which camera is best to use or has the best performance. I’m just here to say this is a damn well-built camera, the best built mirrorless full-frame camera we’ve taken apart. (For the record, I haven’t torn down a Leica SL.)

Even I don’t buy cameras strictly because of how well they are built. And I can’t say until we take apart a Z6 (and really also whatever Canon releases as their high-end mirrorless) if the build quality is how Nikon’s going to do it or because it’s a flagship camera. I would guess a bit of both. But so far the CaNikon mirrorless have been exactly what we expected.
Roger Cicala and Aaron Closz

October, 2018

Author: Roger Cicala

I’m Roger and I am the founder of Hailed as one of the optic nerds here, I enjoy shooting collimated light through 30X microscope objectives in my spare time. When I do take real pictures I like using something different: a Medium format, or Pentax K1, or a Sony RX1R.

Posted in Equipment
  • Tero

    There’s been some talk about rubber grip damaging easily… How hard
    it would be to replace? On D800, it needed quite a lot of disassembly,
    wondering if it’s any better with Z7? Eventually there should be spares
    available online…

  • William Ling

    Are you seeing a lot of unusual wear on the rubber on the panel below the memory card door?

  • Friedhelm

    Hey Anneke,
    what BS did you smoke?

  • SF_Expat

    A continuously variable adjustment gradient will have an infinite number of potential settings whereas a shim based system has discrete steps limited to the number of shim thicknesses one has. So a variable position system can be more accurate but the shim might be more stable with aging and abuse.

  • SF_Expat

    Third party accessory makers will likely release a full control battery grip. No contacts are needed, your phone can control every function so it should be easy using a tiny BlueTooth module and controller board and buttons for AF-on, joy-stick,and shutter release. Nikon had the worst connectivity in the market until the Z cameras came out and now they have lept ahead of all. It is so easy and its has been flawless for linking to phone apps or using the WiFi for reliable fast file transfer while shooting. The best part of having wireless connections; no connections to get oxidized like in the previous grips.

  • tt321

    Always a great read – I read all teardown articles here and none disappoints. However this one takes the biscuit. Given how the word ‘knob’ tends to be used colloquially where I live, the passages about crying out for knob holding assistance, scalpel, forceps and blood had me totally floored and breathless with laughter.

  • Carmen B. Rodriguez

    I generally make up to $15000-$16000 each and every month through the internet. After working so wholeheartedly, I ended up losing my job in my company where I have given a lot of years. I really required a reliable source of income. I am not into “get rich overnight” packages as you can see all across the internet. Those are all kind of ponzi multi level marketing programs in which you need to first make interested customers and then sell a product to friends and family members or any person so that they will likely be in your team. Internet based job offers lots of benefits like I am usually home with my family and friends and can enjoy lots of free time and go out for family trips. Here’s the fastest way to start >>>

  • Akvinat

    Roger, I do believe in weather resistance ever since my phone spent 40 minutes under 10cm of flowing water and worked flawlessly after that (4 month and counting). It displayed “USB port wet” massage for 10 hours, but I could still charge it wirelessly and use. Same degree of sealing in cameras would make lens mounting too difficult probably…

  • bokesan

    Well done! How about a teardown of the FTZ adapter as a followup? You want to know about the seals, and I want to know if I can saw off that tripod mount without damaging the electronics 😉

  • Brian Smith

    Thanks for another great article roger. I’m hoping the Z6 will have similar if not the same build quality; I would love more megapixels but 24 is plenty for now and leaves more room in the budget for lenses!

  • Martin K.

    If at all possible, do take apart a Leica SL, your analysis would be much appreciated!

  • Oliver

    Actually as far as I can see, it’s mixed SMD+THT. Of course, the connectors are surface mounted, but the shell has 4 pins going through the board – look at the bottom side – so it’s as solid as it’ll get.

  • robobal

    That is too bad but since the PCB thickness is most likely 0.8 mm or less, having an SMT part for the connector will not be much weaker. It is more important to have a mechanical support system to protect against both forces in the insertion direction as well as those that are orthogonal to that. This protection is usually provided by the enclosure. Not sure what it looks like for this camera.

  • I’m actually seeing more and more females being . . . well, can’t say fanboy. Fanbeciles?

  • It appears to be surface mounted.

  • Patience and a good heat gun.

  • leo tam

    Just curious- how do you get the rubber back on perfectly?

  • leo tam

    The F2 isn’t sealed at all, but would probably still fire off. Wouldn’t be healthy for the camera though. It’s like when I see people in the pouring rain with a leica on their chest – sure it’s “tough”, but moisture will find it’s way in, but it’ll still run when everything inside is mildly oxidized

  • robobal

    Hi Roger, great article. I’m just curious if the HDMI is a through-hole part or surface mount. TH part is obviously stronger but would add to the manufacturing cost especially if it is the only TH part on the PCB.

  • Ralph Hightower

    About that diopter adjustment knob, I have CSS (Can’t See Stuff); I am very near-sighted. While I can get diopters for my Canon 5D III and Canon New F-1 and A-1, I use my glasses behind the viewfinder. I never found glasses to be a problem with focusing my A-1 in 1981. Taking off my glasses for photography can be a point of failure (losing or damaging my glasses).

  • jose luis pelaez

    As an action and sport shooter I prefer my D850 and SONY RX10IV as second camera. The AF speed and tracking performance make the difference.

  • jose luis pelaez

    But, an electronic image stabilization implies a cropped (reframed) and more processed image, and usually only 2-3 axes corrected. Then, do you think the optical stabilization could be the best stb system, as Canon says?

  • Doug Herr

    According to my daughter knitting forums can be vicious.

  • Paradiddlesixix

    but someone elses has? my d3 never had a problem with anything. i guess by your reasoning, no d3 has ever malfunctioned.

    you are talking to guys that rent multitudes of cameras. where there is a weakness, they will have to deal with failures.

  • Max da Meme

    There is not. The Kolarivision IR photography testing showed no IR source inside of the Z7.

  • RC Jenkins

    So will the Z7. Mobile device or laptop.
    Or, with the WT-7, to an ftp server.

  • I’m not sure it’s actually sexist though… Can you remember the last time you witnessed two females arguing like children on the Internet over the nuances of one brand’s spec list vs. the other’s?

    Perhaps males have rightfully earned their gender attached to this term— or maybe I’m missing out on some very interesting camera debate elsewhere on the web…

  • David Bateman

    Excellent teardown. Did you see if there was an IR shutter monitor? Or did you not go down that far?

  • Roger Cicala

    David, I’m interested in this. I completely agree about the sturdiness. In lenses, though, we find them extremely limiting when we are trying to do adjustments. A rotating eccentric collar is far faster (often on the order of an hour faster given that disassembly is required to change shims; and an hour is basically $100 in increased repair costs) and less accurate (as confirmed by optical testing – we simply can’t shim to as fine an adjustment as we can a rotating eccentric collar).

    We don’t adjust sensors nearly as often as we do lenses, and I can see the possibility of change in a spring-loaded screw over time, although I can’t comment on the frequency with which it may occur. My assumption has always been if anything changed over time it would be the lens mount that the sensor is shimmed to, especially when I watch people carrying 70-200mm f/2.8 lenses by the camera body. On the other hand, the screw-spring mounts are supporting a rapidly vibrating IBIS unit. Can you give us some data on loosening or change over time?

  • umad?!

    GFX next 😉

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