The Great Flange-to-Sensor Distance Article. Part II: Photo Cameras
If you’re a photo shooter, chances are you didn’t read Part I of this series on Cine Cameras. If you’re at all interested in the methodology, you should give it a glance, because I’m not going over that again. Today I’m going to just talk about photo bodies and what we found measuring flange-to-sensor distance.
Well, how did we get here?
In the previous article, we pointed out that variation could make cinema lens distance scales inaccurate and, at least with wide-angle lenses, make it impossible to achieve infinity focus on lenses with hard infinity stops. Neither of those things matter for photo cameras. Distance scales aren’t critically accurate on photo lenses, and the lenses all can focus past infinity; they don’t have a hard stop.
Since we assumed that flange-to-focus distance wouldn’t matter for photo cameras, you might wonder why we bothered to test them. Mostly because we could, I guess. Plus, no one had done it before. The fact that nobody’s done it before is always attractive, and we test a lot of things on that basis. Most of the time, we don’t write about it because all we find is it really wasn’t worth doing.
So, in true internet fashion, we assumed photo bodies would vary more than Cine cameras, and we assumed that testing for it would be a waste of time. As usual, both assumptions were wrong. Roger’s Formula of Internet Wrongness is W = iS x A****2 where W is Wrongness, A equals the number of incorrect assumptions, and iS is the Internet Stupidity Constant (.737475706964). So, our thinking was 2.95 Internet Wrongness Units of bad. (Since I have invented this concept of Internet Wrongness Units, I hereby declare one Wrongness Unit should henceforth be labelled as a Roger.)
And we weren’t even done with our wrongness there. You see, we bought the Denz equipment because we thought its biggest purpose was to improve matching Cine lenses to Cine cameras. Turns out that for us, at least, its greater purpose is in detecting sort-of broken photo cameras.
Oh, I left an Easter Egg — the Internet Stupidity Constant. First one to figure it out in the comments wins a cool prize of pretty much no financial value.
Canon SLRs
I’m going to start with a graph of the flange-to-sensor measurements of 478 Canon photo cameras of various types, ranging from Canon 1DxII to crop sensor bodies. As we did with the Cine tests, the first thing we looked for were outliers. The four circled in red are pretty apparent outliers. The seven circled in yellow are borderline, although they seem close to the expected range.

Before we get into the outliers, let’s look at the same cameras by type, this time with the outliers removed. Not a lot to see here; certainly no distinct differences by camera type. I checked the age/use of each type also;, they all averaged slightly over 110 days of rental. I also removed the Canon 5D MkIII from this second graph to keep it cleaner; there were only a dozen of them; they are all older (200 days rental average), and they all measured between 0.0 and 0.02.

So mild surprise #1; flange-to-sensor distance in photo cameras doesn’t vary any more than Cine cameras.
Now let’s discuss those outlier cameras a bit. I had all of the red and yellow circled cameras in the first graph pulled, inspected by both camera and repair techs, and evaluated their complaint history. I didn’t expect to find much because I genuinely expected there would be no significant problems if an SLR mount varied a bit.
The first real surprise I got was which cameras were pulled because of variation. We pulled 11 cameras out of 478 (that’s 2.3%, about the same as Cine cameras). All 11 of them were either 5D IV or 1Dx bodies, which is not at all what I expected. There were 291 total 5D IV and 1Dx bodies, so 3.75% of those bodies were out of spec, none of the other Canon cameras were. If, when we started this, you thought that ‘yeah all the outliers will be from the most expensive camera types,’ then you’re way smarter than me.
In evaluating these eleven cameras, we found that two cameras that measured -0.03 and two that measured +0.04 had no significant history and functioned perfectly; they were returned to stock.
That left us seven other cameras with some significant history; four 5DIV and three 1Dx bodies. Three of the 5D IV cameras had been reported (by the customer) to have taken a significant drop with a lens attached, had been tested by us, considered fine, and returned to stock. The other one had had a sensor assembly replacement a year ago for a scratched sensor.
One of the 1Dx bodies had had a mirror box replacement after a bad fall with a lens attached. The other two had no clear history of problems, but both were older, and both had notes in the past that they had come back from rental with a dent or significant cosmetic damage (in other words, probably a drop the customer didn’t report). Both of these also required significant AF microadjustment, 15 or so. In both cases, when we replaced the lens mount the cameras went back in spec, AND they no longer required the large micro-adjustment. It’s only two cameras, but it’s an interesting finding.
So, while this isn’t a huge number of cameras, a history of drop and/or significant internal work is present in nearly all of them. So I speculate that these larger cameras (which are more likely to be mounted to larger lenses and perhaps are more likely to be used in rough conditions), don’t take a drop well. That makes sense because of force proportional to mass and all.
It’s interesting to note that while all of these cameras functioned OK (they passed our routine inspection, which is pretty thorough), there were some subtle complaints. I mentioned the two 1Dx requiring more AF microadjustment than we like. One of the 5DIV cameras had a complaint that it seemed to hunt on autofocus a bit. I’m not sure if this is significant, we couldn’t really reproduce it. But we’re indoors with good lighting in the testing area; customers use cameras in other conditions.
This was not, at all, what I expected. I was a little surprised that photo cameras didn’t vary more than cine cameras. The fact that ‘dropped with a lens attached’ affected the mount does seem pretty obvious, in retrospect. The fact that it appears to affect larger camera bodies that are likely to be attached to larger lenses makes sense, too. A camera body may have ruggedized features, but a lens mount is a lens mount. It just wasn’t what I expected. Things seldom are.
Even the way-out-of-spec cameras seemed to have functioned well, though, with only subtle and hard-to-reproduce issues. So, the ‘it doesn’t matter on photo cameras’ school of thought is technically correct. Still, I’d rather have a camera that wasn’t an outlier, so checking the flange-to-sensor distance on photo cameras seems like a good idea going forward.
The AF microadjustment part is interesting, but it’s just two cameras, so I don’t want to draw any sweeping conclusions. That’s not going to stop the internet for drawing sweeping conclusions, I know, but I can’t help that. When you see someone reposting this with a click-bait headline, please remember that wasn’t my headline.
Sony Mirrorless Bodies
We tested 487 Sony mirrorless bodies of various types. First, let me mention that we asked and answered the obvious question, “does the IBIS system change the flange-to-sensor distance.” We took some cameras, measured them, put a lens on, focused it on various things to run the IBIS, and measured again, about a dozen times each. Each camera had identical measurements every time.
The overall graph for the Sony bodies exhibits more variation. Note that the range for this chart is -0.1mm to +0.1mm, larger than that of the first Canon graph above.

I’m going to separate out the camera types in a couple of graphs; there’s a lot of them, and showing too many at once gets confusing. First, let’s go with the two groups at the opposite ends of the price spectrum; the A9s and the crop-sensor cameras (A6xxx). Why those two, you ask? Because of their awesomeness. They look marvelous. (I’m keeping the range the same in the next few graphs for perspective.) Let me note that the A9 bodies had lower use than most other camera bodies, averaging 60 rental days each.

Next, I grouped the A7III, A7R IV, and A7rIII cameras. The A7rIII and A7III bodies averaged over 110 rental days (similar to the Canon cameras above), while the A7IV average was significantly lower, at 56 days. These are a bit less marvelous from the variation standpoint.

The average reading for all three cameras is similar; it’s the outliers that seem dramatic.
The a7sII cameras were quite similar to the other A7 cameras; I’m just graphing them separately to keep things legible. These also tended to be higher use, at 190 days average.

I’m going to talk about all the outliers first because that was what stood out. We pulled 28 cameras for repair department evaluation (5.75%). As with the Canon cameras, all had passed inspections. None of these had a clear history of being dropped. (Maybe Sony users are more careful. Maybe lighter cameras drop better. I don’t know. I doubt you do, either. But I’m sure someone is going to start a thread with “Cicala shows Sony users never drop cameras.”)
A couple had one or two ‘iffy’ complaints, either that images seemed a little soft or the stabilization wasn’t as good as expected, but most had no complaints at all. (To be clear, about one in 20 rentals or so has a ‘maybe something’ complaint, about 90% of the time we can’t reproduce it, and it goes on to rent with no further complaints.)
When repair inspected them, there were a few that had loose lens mount screws and a couple that improved when the lens mount was replaced, so we assume the mount was bent slightly. The ones that were large outliers, though, had a more unexpected issue; there was a fracture between the sensor mount and the stabilizing system. You can look at this old teardown of the A7rIII that shows the sensor is mounted to a plastic plate that attaches with three screws to the in-body image stabilizing system.
When we took apart these way-out-of-spec bodies, we found in several cases that the plastic plate had fractured. Two of these cameras are shown in images below. The dark black area to the right of the arrow is the back of the shutter. The large metal assembly towards the bottom left of both images is the IBIS system. The sensor is hidden in front of it, but you can see the sensor-to-IBIS mounts are broken where the arrows point.


You don’t have a scale to go by, but the broken pieces are shifted by 0.5mm or so. Of course, the center of the sensor, where we measured, is shifted less than that, but several readings were in the +.15 or -0.18 range (I cut the charts off at +/- 0.01 above).
On two others, one of the screws holding the sensor in place had backed out.

There was another one where with a metal fatigue type fracture in the mount.

And one that had a displaced fracture of the sensor frame (above and to the left of the arrow) severe enough to pop off the retaining clip (arrow point).

The amazing thing to me is despite what I would have thought was disabling damage, the cameras really didn’t show much disfunction. If you had just shown me the pictures above, I would have expected error messages, horrible images, something dramatic. These were regularly renting; customers were happy with them; our 64-point tech inspection was passed before and after each rental.
When we KNEW something was wrong and did hours of stress testing by our most experienced techs, all we came up with were the same things that a couple of customers had said. “Seems images might be a little soft on one side,” or “maybe the stabilization isn’t quite as good as it should be.” Only when we opened them up did we find the problem.
In each case, only one of the plastic mounts was broken, the other two mounts were fine. I suspect two broken mounts would be dramatically bad and probably would have just been sent to the service center. (We only do limited Sony work in-house, so we would have just sent them to factory service once we detected IBIS or sensor problems). One broken mount is apparently pretty subtle, though, at least most of the time.
We bought this tool to check back focus distance on cinema cameras. We find it’s an extremely sensitive tool to detect sensor mount damage we didn’t know existed. Just like with the Canon cameras, you can make an argument that we’re fixing a problem that isn’t a problem; the cameras were working. And I’ll give you the same response. That’s great, but I’d want the camera I was using to not have a broken mount.
When the dust settled, we found that actual lens mount problems occurred in under 2% of our Sony camera stock, about the same rate as our Canon cameras. In the early days of Sony mirrorless, there were problems with the lens mount; that has obviously been fixed. Eight other Sony cameras (1.6% of all Sony or 2.8% of A7xxx cameras) had a sensor mount issue.
Micro 4/3 Cameras
We don’t have nearly as many m4/3 cameras as we do the others. We tested 138 of them; 82 Panasonic, 36 Olympus, and 20 Black Magic Pocket 4k.

First, please note the graph range is different again, in this graph from -0.02 to +.013. Also, I should mention that the average age of the m4/3 cameras was about 130 days of use.
The average m4/3 camera measures at about +0.06 on the Denz optical test. Since 19.25mm is the nominal distance, the Denz is saying they actually average 19.19mm on average. There are several possible explanations for this, including manufacturer preference, the effect of thicker sensor cover glass on our measurements, and things I haven’t thought of. I don’t know the answer (yet); at this point, I was mostly looking for outliers.
We considered four cameras as certain outliers (-.02; -.01; +.13) and the two at 0.0 and 0.11 as possible outliers. As always, we did stress testing on those five cameras and reviewed their history. All had no complaints. All seemed completely fine on testing and even with a peek at the sensor assembly. Interestingly, four of these five had had a sensor replacement at factory service in the past, and the other a shutter replacement. (To give perspective, 5 of the other 133 cameras had also had sensor replacements and measured fine.)
My conclusion is that the factory service center isn’t quite as good at spacing sensors as the assembly line is, but it doesn’t seem to matter at all.
What Did We Learn Today?
Most importantly, we learned Roger’s Formula of Internet Wrongness and that it should be called a Roger because Roger makes so many wrong assumptions. (I will give myself credit for being one of about three people on the internet will to say, ‘wait, I was wrong.’) Also, sometimes measuring things nobody else has measured is interesting.
We also learned that using a tool to measure flange-to-sensor distance is an excellent thing to do for photo cameras, not just video cameras, which was a surprise. We found fixable issues in about 2% of our photo camera fleet. I’m a repair and quality assurance person. To me, that’s a huge thing. Huge enough that we need to get a second Denz tool for the photo techs since the first one is already monopolized by the video people. (I tried getting the photo techs to sing “Oh lord, won’t you buy me a Mercedes Denz” in a flash mob, but that didn’t happen.)
Second, we learned that while slightly over 2% of photo cameras had issues, they still worked well. So that first assumption, that flange-to-sensor distance of photo cameras doesn’t matter, is largely true. We knew it wouldn’t affect infinity focus since photo lenses will all focus past infinity, with few exceptions.
Even broken sensor mounts don’t seem to matter a whole lot. However, there may be some subtle problems. AF microadjustment on an SLR may be increased; there may be some subtle image softness or mild IBIS dysfunction. But you have to look hard and even then finding it is iffy.
Testing flange-to-sensor distance lets us find 2-3% of our cameras had something broke that was causing, at most, some mild symptoms. Logic tells me if these things were not fixed, they would eventually get worse. So, I think this is a sound ‘early detection’ system.
Let’s remember what the sample pool was, hundreds of cameras from a large rental fleet. That’s a two-edged used-camera sword. These are heavily used rental cameras, probably more heavily used than your own camera, and more likely to be damaged, and the sensors are certainly cleaned more often.
But, they are also regularly tested and screened by experienced people with a lot of equipment you don’t have lying around the house. So, significant problems would have been weeded out before we did this test. If AF adjustment was at absolute maximum, for example, the camera would already have been repaired. Same if the IBIS had a major dysfunction or if the images looked bad. So it’s possible that this does cause apparent problems sometimes, but those cameras had already been fixed.
What does it mean for you and your personal camera? Well, I’d suggest if you dropped a camera with a lens on it, you consider there might be subtle damage after the initial ‘oh, thank goodness it’s OK’ moment passes. If you have AF microadjustment, you might check to see if it has changed. If it has changed, you might want to send it in for servicing. (I should mention that most SLR cameras benefit from a bit of AF microadjustment; that’s normal. A camera requiring lots of AF microadjustment on most of your lenses might indicate a problem.)
That 2% of A7 series cameras had fractured sensor-to-IBIS mounts is a bit scarier, I know. This seems to be an only full-frame camera issue, which makes sense. We saw no instances on m4/3 or crop cameras with IBIS fractures. That doesn’t mean it never happens, but it probably happens less much frequently. The IBIS units for full-frame cameras are much bigger than those for crop cameras. Bigger means more mass and more moving mass, just like dropping more mass, means more force.
We have noted over the years that manufacturers are making IBIS units larger and sturdier. Looking at where most of these fractures occurred, I would guess maybe the sensor-to-IBIS mounts, which haven’t changed much, might need to get a bit sturdier on the next generation.
But that’s just my guess and we see in this article how frequently my educated guesses are totally wrong. It’s possible it’s just a rental camera thing; that heavier use and more frequent cleaning cause the issue.
Whatever the cause, I wouldn’t avoid getting an IBIS camera because someday this might occur. IBIS is awesome, and if it’s going to fail someday, well, it’s still awesome until that day. Someday the shutter is going to fail, too, and we don’t avoid cameras with shutters. Eventually, cameras and lenses fail; it’s what they do. Finding out they’re going to fail before they totally fail, though, that’s worthwhile.
Addendum: It’s not often I find myself outgeeked, but I have. This article is an incredibly good (it’s long, but worth it) read on sensor tilt. I recommend it.
Roger Cicala, Aaron Closz, and Ben Berggren
Lensrentals.com
June, 2020
Thanks to Will Glynn for technical assistance and Erick Marquez for repair department photographs.
I’m just putting this down here so it will show up above the comments.

224 Comments
Tuan Bui ·
Thanks for writing this! Also, the constant is the six letters of “stupid” spelled out in ascii code!
Roger Cicala ·
TUAN YOU WIN!!! Email me Roger at Lensrentals dot com your address.
atelier 3021 ·
Nice. But, mathematically, if this constant iS increases the effect of wrong assumptions, it should be greater than 1; or, if you want to keep it like that (which makes a lot of sense), the formula should use 1/iS.
Roger Cicala ·
@atelier 3021 So, you’re saying my constant overestimates the intelligence of the internet?
atelier 3021 ·
If it’s .something, as it is, which means less than 1, the result of the multiplication (which is the wrongness) is smaller. I think you want to have the opposite, bigger W if bigger A*A. But hey, it’s just an internet formula, eh.
Now, if the wrong assumptions A is less than 1 (but not less than -1!!!), the formula is perfect as it is and you’re saved, but you didn’t specify this.
atelier 3021 ·
Oh, great articles on this blog, thank you for everything you do.
Roger Cicala ·
@atelier 3021 So, you're saying my constant overestimates the intelligence of the internet?
atelier 3021 ·
If it's .something, as it is, which means less than 1, the result of the multiplication (which is the wrongness) is smaller. I think you want to have the opposite, bigger W if bigger A*A. But hey, it's just an internet formula, eh.
Now, if the wrong assumptions A is less than 1 (but not less than -1!!!), the formula is perfect as it is and you're saved, but you didn't specify this.
Tuan Bui ·
Thanks for writing this! Also, the constant is the six letters of "stupid" spelled out in ascii code!
Jim A. ·
Even if I knew in advance I wouldn’t learn anything, (an unmeasurably small possibility) I would still read your articles for the entertaining style you bring along for the ride. You have a lot of talents, and sharing dense info in an approachable and entertaining manner is probably way underappreciated. Thanks for continuing to write these articles and help us all become a little more knowledgeable.
Ted Miller ·
Sounds like a skill that might have been helpful for a Doctor in a past life?
Jim A. ·
Even if I knew in advance I wouldn't learn anything, (an unmeasurably small possibility) I would still read your articles for the entertaining style you bring along for the ride. You have a lot of talents, and sharing dense info in an approachable and entertaining manner is probably way underappreciated. Thanks for continuing to write these articles and help us all become a little more knowledgeable.
Ales Litomisky ·
Roger, this is great insight, thank you for sharing. Could your “Mercedes Denz” measure how parallel is lens mount with sensor?
Roger Cicala ·
Ales, it cannot, it’s just taking a ‘near center’ measurement. That’s another can of worms, entirely.
Ales Litomisky ·
As we know your persistence from your blog posts, you will one day open that can! 🙂
Brandon Dube ·
An instrument that could do that measurement is $225k, interested in funding? 😉 Search “Zygo verifire MST”
Roger Cicala ·
@Brandon Dube Well, I know what’s going on MY Christmas gift list!!! I bookmarked that, not because I’ll ever get it, but because I’ll ask for that first next time I want some $5k widget.
David Cartagena ·
I am pretty sure you can make it cheaper. I would recommend micro-epsilon. We have used their products (laser equipment) to achieve precision lower than 10 microns.
Brandon Dube ·
Do they have the magic laser scanner that works for specular surfaces? Our $12m flagship system at work used on $2.7bn products does not.
David Cartagena ·
Well you could contact them instead of being condescending….
David Cartagena ·
Well you could contact them instead of being condescending....
Kristian Wannebo ·
Hi Roger,
I wonder how many Rogers this gives me…
Just a thought, but it depends on factors unknown to me.
Perhaps your camera testing includes a check of sensor tilt.
Should it *not*, here goes.
If you don’t want to measure the amount of sensor tilt, but only if it is out of spec, maybe you might not need those $225?
Suppose the sensor cover glass is parallell enough to the sensor and flat and smooth enough to reflect a narrow laser beam at a well defined constant angle.
If so, suppose you let make a high precision metal camera lens mount lid with a good enough reflective surface parallell enough to the lens mount.
( So long as it fits better than the lenses…)
?Is this feasible?
If so…
You must already have a camera mount steady enough; perhaps that is in a several meters large room.
Then shine a narrow laser beam at an angle at the sensor, put a steady small white board, say, 5m from the camera in the reflected beam, mark the spot and then fit the mount lid and mark the new spot.
I believe a sensor tilt out of spec would be seen well enough? Or?
( A difference of ~1mm would be small enough and should be observable – i.e. with a steady board, right?)
[ With a rather larger room, might it be possible this way to also measure the tilt? How expensive is a narrow enough laser beam? Are the sensor cover glasses parallell, flat and smooth enough for that?
As I said, just a thought… ( – I’m an improvising sort of guy.)
This doesn’t, of course, mean that I doubt the usefulnes of that expensive sensor tilt measuring machine.]
.- – * – –
Roger & Staff,
many thanks for your article, and for many before; I always enjoy reading them – for content, style, humor and for a scientific attitude not common enough even in the science community!
( Some have even been significant for me as an amateur ‘tog, like e.g. those on sensor cover glass thickness – they made me choose a camera with thinner glass for a better possible use of vintage lenses.)
Brandon Dube ·
What you’re describing is just the other side of the coin of how a distance measuring interferometer works. The MST I alluded to is not a DMI, a DMI is something else entirely — but if you want to google around. The issue is that by introducing a new reference artefact (the mirror with a camera flange) you’ve increased the error in measurements. There could be an overall bias due to wedge in the flanged mirror, or increased noise because there is some play in the mirror with a flange. This is notwithstanding the slop in the flange of many mounts. F mount, for example, is quite loose — perhaps 2mm of slop. PL mount is very tight, on the other hand.
There’s nothing that means a DMI type machine can’t work on the mount itself. The MST being 1550 nm instead of HeNe actually lets it see both highly specular surfaces (a prereq for interferometers) as well as somewhat granular or rough ones, due to its longer wavelength.
Of course, it being an interferometer also means you can’t miss by more than about 1.5 degrees or you see nothing. And it being infrared (invisible to you) with low power density (invisible to laser cards) means you will swear a lot learning to use it. The sensitivity also means you need really really good fixturing.
There are cheaper alternatives to the MST. Whether the total cost of ownership ends up less, dunno.
A noncontact optical probe with large dynamic range could probably do it. Depends just how good the AR coating on the coverglass is. Couple that with a precision 3 axis stage and good software so that you don’t smash the probe into the mirrorbox or shutter and you have something that’s maybe half the price. A thousandth the accuracy though.
Kristian Wannebo ·
Brandon,
Thanks for your informative reply!
I had, sadly, forgotten to consider the wavelength.
Your comments on added errors by that mirror are, of course, valid. Consider instead a very stiff and flat mirror lightly pressed against the camera flange (e.g. with some spring or rubber band arrangement, and after wiping the surfaces..)? With precise machining any wedge could be small enough, and reversing the mirror would expose it. Wouldn’t that be precise enough? (At least more than a fitted lens.)
I’ll try for some more Rogers…
Exchange my white board for an appropriately IR-adapted camera with good hi-ISO performance without lens positioned much closer and feeding to a screen. The laser beam could be split into several to compensate for local defects (e.g. scratches) on the cover glass of the checked sensor. And limit this to only check for sensor tilt out of spec.
True, fixtures now need to be permanent and very good, but most for the tested camera as only it is touched between measurements.
You remind me of the AR coating of the sensor glass, but isn’t that weak enough at long wavelengths?
I suppose there are other problems with my tentative set-up that are outside of my basic understanding of physics…
Brandon Dube ·
Your “place a mirror on the mount” idea works great in some cases — that’s actually how most optics are gauged during the mid to late phase of manufacturing — when they’re polishing but not very good yet. The challenge is when you have “poor” surfaces, and “poor” is a few microns of flatness error peak to valley. The test becomes non repeatable, since the points of contact between the two surfaces have some newfound randomness. That the flanges aren’t mirrors themselves tells you they aren’t that flat. You can assume the instantaneous error in any measurement is the half the PV flatness of the flange. Say, 10 microns. If you want to measure runout from tilt on the focal plane of < 10 microns (presumably, you want to measure < 1 micron) then that's not good enough.
For your second idea, I would not split up beam at all — that's complicated. Here's a sketch of what I would do:
https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/6df8330b10fc26c9a30b22a2ca9785de42246ef170611a317890e3cef270a17d.jpg
You need to do this at a long enough wavelength that the flange isn't a scatterer.
You will basically see two dots on the camera, the distance between them is linked to angular separation between bayonette and sensor by x = f * tan(theta).
You do need a ~2.5 inch clear aperture corner beam splitter though, which is a bit pricy. But this is robust to gross misalignment to the camera you're testing and can be made arbitrarily sensitive by increasing f. And pricy is order of $1k not $100k. The IR camera will be $$$ though.
Kristian Wannebo ·
Brandon,
Thank you for another clarifying and instructive reply!
And thank you for that sketch!
[ But what about the life span of that $$$-camera with the need for new methods as the pixel war continues…, 🙂 .
Would future flanges need to be mirror-smooth, and how expensive would lenses become if they have to be a few times better aligned? 🙂 !
Nooo! ]
I can understand the need for the 1 micron accuracy you recommend if e.g. a camera maker needs to study the production results.
But I believe a camera user won’t really see a sensor tilt within +/- 15 microns at FF sensor corners – corresponding to about +/- 20 microns at the flange diameter.
( With pixels >4 microns & lenses sharp enough from ~ f/2, out of focus by ~10 microns could be just visible when pixel peeping – and corners are less sharp anyway.)
Say instead ~ +/- 15 microns at the flange diameter to allow for some tilt possibly added by a lens mounted on that “rough” flange.
So to just eliminate tilt outliers, wouldn’t (if possible) an error of that (my) mirror-on-flange of 3-5 microns be small enough?
Suppose the back of that mirror is covered by a very thin film of a softer material, so that the higher peaks on the flange surface get buried (with a fixed central pressure), and the measurement is repeated a few times with the mirror shifted/rotated. Couldn’t that reduce the inaccuracy from the mirror from your estimate of 10 microns to that?
( A systematic error would mean an uneven mount – or mirror!)
Does the sensor cover glass allow a good reflection with light within the range (and sensibility) of a “normal” IR converted camera (<< $$$ , 😉 )?
Supposing this makes sense,
let me (re-)insert my mirror – with a sensor size hole in it – into your sketch.
This (if feasible) would, of course, cost time instead of $$$, and a film covered mirror would have to be replaced regularly.
But for just checking complaints and a reasonably small percentage of all camera rental returns…
??
Brandon Dube ·
If you want a MWIR camera, they’re like 30-40k. I think LWIR is more like 12k. The camera itself would last longer than you care, I think. Maybe ten years or more. The pixel pitch of the camera you’re taking a measurement of the tilt of doesn’t matter, and you can choose the focal length on the measuring camera to make the sensitivity whatever you want. Suppose you can discern the dots if they’re 2px apart and a pixel is 15 microns. Then if you had a 100mm focal length, your sensitivity limit is 30e-6/.1 = 300 micro radians. If your focal length were 600mm, 50 urad, etc.
Back in the very early days of optics, Lord Rayleigh said you can see a quarter wave peak to valley of defocus. In image space, as you report numbers, that’s 8 * f#^2 * lambda * (.25), about 4 microns. You might be more sensitive, I certainly can see better than that. This starts pushing the focusing requirements down to a micron or lower. And this is before you think about F/1.4 or F/0.95 lenses.
A systematic error does mean an uneven mount (or mirror). You can rest assured that first surface mirrors are flatter than any mechanical device can measure. You can buy one that has a peak to valley flatness error of 30 nanometers on both sides with a few arcseconds of wedge for about $200. The flanges I would spitball are at least as not flat as 10 microns. Sony may actually be worse, you can feel the turning marks with a fingernail. That’s closer to a thousandth and a half (35-40 microns), from the highly calibrated measurement device that is my hands.
A bright enough reflection off the sensor is more of a background level question. It can be as dark as you want if you can keep bright lights away from the measurement device. And if it is significantly larger than the flange, then the reflection intensity can be significantly lower and you still get equal total intensity.
You can buy annular mirrors. Search for “off-axis parabola with through hole.” Doing it to a flat would be a little unusual, but nothing wrong with it and easier to do than an OAP. I think it costs much less than you think it does (well, depends how calibrated you are to what custom optics cost in the US).
Ales Litomisky ·
Roger, this is great insight, thank you for sharing. Could your "Mercedes Denz" measure how parallel is the lens mount with the sensor?
Roger Cicala ·
Ales, it cannot, it's just taking a 'near center' measurement. Sensor tilt is another can of worms, entirely.
Ales Litomisky ·
As we know your persistence from your blog posts, you will one day open that can! :)
Brandon Dube ·
An instrument that could do that measurement is $225k, interested in funding? ;) Search "Zygo verifire MST"
Roger Cicala ·
@Brandon Dube Well, I know what's going on MY Christmas gift list!!! I bookmarked that, not because I'll ever get it, but because I'll ask for that first next time I want some $5k widget.
Kristian Wannebo ·
Hi Roger,
I wonder how many Rogers this gives me...
Just a thought, but it depends on factors unknown to me.
Perhaps your camera testing includes a check of sensor tilt.
Should it *not*, here goes.
If you don't want to measure the amount of sensor tilt, but only if it is out of spec, maybe you might not need those $225?
Suppose the sensor cover glass is parallell enough to the sensor and flat and smooth enough to reflect a narrow laser beam at a well defined constant angle.
If so, suppose you let make a high precision metal camera lens mount lid with a good enough reflective surface parallell enough to the lens mount.
( So long as it fits better than the lenses...)
?Is this feasible?
If so...
You must already have a camera mount steady enough; perhaps that is in a several meters large room.
Then shine a narrow laser beam at an angle at the sensor, put a steady small white board, say, 5m from the camera in the reflected beam, mark the spot and then fit the mount lid and mark the new spot.
I believe a sensor tilt out of spec would be seen well enough? Or?
( A difference of ~1mm would be small enough and should be observable - i.e. with a steady board, right?)
[ With a rather larger room, might it be possible this way to also measure the tilt? How expensive is a narrow enough laser beam? Are the sensor cover glasses parallell, flat and smooth enough for that?
As I said, just a thought... ( - I'm an improvising sort of guy.)
This doesn't, of course, mean that I doubt the usefulnes of that expensive sensor tilt measuring machine.]
.- - * - -
Roger & Staff,
many thanks for your article, and for many before; I always enjoy reading them - for content, style, humor and for a scientific attitude not common enough even in the science community!
( Some have even been significant for me as an amateur 'tog, like e.g. those on sensor cover glass thickness - they made me choose a camera with thinner glass for a better possible use of vintage lenses.)
Brandon Dube ·
What you're describing is just the other side of the coin of how a distance measuring interferometer works. The MST I alluded to is not a DMI, a DMI is something else entirely -- but if you want to google around. The issue is that by introducing a new reference artefact (the mirror with a camera flange) you've increased the error in measurements. There could be an overall bias due to wedge in the flanged mirror, or increased noise because there is some play in the mirror with a flange. This is notwithstanding the slop in the flange of many mounts. F mount, for example, is quite loose -- perhaps 2mm of slop. PL mount is very tight, on the other hand.
There's nothing that means a DMI type machine can't work on the mount itself. The MST being 1550 nm instead of HeNe actually lets it see both highly specular surfaces (a prereq for interferometers) as well as somewhat granular or rough ones, due to its longer wavelength.
Of course, it being an interferometer also means you can't miss by more than about 1.5 degrees or you see nothing. And it being infrared (invisible to you) with low power density (invisible to laser cards) means you will swear a lot learning to use it. The sensitivity also means you need really really good fixturing.
There are cheaper alternatives to the MST. Whether the total cost of ownership ends up less, dunno.
A noncontact optical probe with large dynamic range could probably do it. Depends just how good the AR coating on the coverglass is. Couple that with a precision 3 axis stage and good software so that you don't smash the probe into the mirrorbox or shutter and you have something that's maybe half the price. A thousandth the accuracy though.
Kristian Wannebo ·
Brandon,
Thanks for your informative reply!
I had, sadly, forgotten to consider the wavelength.
Your comments on added errors by that mirror are, of course, valid. Consider instead a very stiff and flat mirror lightly pressed against the camera flange (e.g. with some spring or rubber band arrangement, and after wiping the surfaces..)? With precise machining any wedge could be small enough, and reversing the mirror would expose it. Wouldn't that be precise enough? (At least more than a fitted lens.)
I'll try for some more Rogers...
Exchange my white board for an appropriately IR-adapted camera with good hi-ISO performance without lens positioned much closer and feeding to a screen. The laser beam could be split into several to compensate for local defects (e.g. scratches) on the cover glass of the checked sensor. And limit this to only check for sensor tilt out of spec.
True, fixtures now need to be permanent and very good, but most for the tested camera as only it is touched between measurements.
You remind me of the AR coating of the sensor glass, but isn't that weak enough at long wavelengths?
I suppose there are other problems with my tentative set-up that are outside of my basic understanding of physics...
Brandon Dube ·
Your "place a mirror on the mount" idea works great in some cases -- that's actually how most optics are gauged during the mid to late phase of manufacturing -- when they're polishing but not very good yet. The challenge is when you have "poor" surfaces, and "poor" is a few microns of flatness error peak to valley. The test becomes non repeatable, since the points of contact between the two surfaces have some newfound randomness. That the flanges aren't mirrors themselves tells you they aren't that flat. You can assume the instantaneous error in any measurement is the half the PV flatness of the flange. Say, 10 microns. If you want to measure runout from tilt on the focal plane of < 10 microns (presumably, you want to measure < 1 micron) then that's not good enough.
For your second idea, I would not split up beam at all -- that's complicated. Here's a sketch of what I would do:
https://uploads.disquscdn.c...
You need to do this at a long enough wavelength that the flange isn't a scatterer.
You will basically see two dots on the camera, the distance between them is linked to angular separation between bayonette and sensor by x = f * tan(theta).
You do need a ~2.5 inch clear aperture corner beam splitter though, which is a bit pricy. But this is robust to gross misalignment to the camera you're testing and can be made arbitrarily sensitive by increasing f. And pricy is order of $1k not $100k. The IR camera will be $$$ though.
Kristian Wannebo ·
Brandon,
Thank you for another clarifying and instructive reply!
And thank you for that sketch!
[ But what about the life span of that $$$-camera with the need for new methods as the pixel war continues..., :-) .
Would future flanges need to be mirror-smooth, and how expensive would lenses become if they have to be a few times better aligned? :-) !
Nooo! ]
I can understand the need for the 1 micron accuracy you recommend if e.g. a camera maker needs to study the production results.
But I believe a camera user won't really see a sensor tilt within +/- 15 microns at FF sensor corners - corresponding to about +/- 20 microns at the flange diameter.
( With pixels >4 microns & lenses sharp enough from ~ f/2, out of focus by ~10 microns could be just visible when pixel peeping - and corners are less sharp anyway.)
Say instead ~ +/- 15 microns at the flange diameter to allow for some tilt possibly added by a lens mounted on that "rough" flange.
So to just eliminate tilt outliers, wouldn't (if possible) an error of that (my) mirror-on-flange of 3-5 microns be small enough?
Suppose the back of that mirror is covered by a very thin film of a softer material, so that the higher peaks on the flange surface get buried (with a fixed central pressure), and the measurement is repeated a few times with the mirror shifted/rotated. Couldn't that reduce the inaccuracy from the mirror from your estimate of 10 microns to that?
( A systematic error would mean an uneven mount - or mirror!)
Does the sensor cover glass allow a good reflection with light within the range (and sensibility) of a "normal" IR converted camera (<< $$$ , ;-) )?
Supposing this makes sense,
let me (re-)insert my mirror - with a sensor size hole in it - into your sketch.
This (if feasible) would, of course, cost time instead of $$$, and a film covered mirror would have to be replaced regularly.
But for just checking complaints and a reasonably small percentage of all camera rental returns...
??
Brandon Dube ·
If you want a MWIR camera, they're like 30-40k. I think LWIR is more like 12k. The camera itself would last longer than you care, I think. Maybe ten years or more. The pixel pitch of the camera you're taking a measurement of the tilt of doesn't matter, and you can choose the focal length on the measuring camera to make the sensitivity whatever you want. Suppose you can discern the dots if they're 2px apart and a pixel is 15 microns. Then if you had a 100mm focal length, your sensitivity limit is 30e-6/.1 = 300 micro radians. If your focal length were 600mm, 50 urad, etc.
Back in the very early days of optics, Lord Rayleigh said you can see a quarter wave peak to valley of defocus. In image space, as you report numbers, that's 8 * f#^2 * lambda * (.25), about 4 microns. You might be more sensitive, I certainly can see better than that. This starts pushing the focusing requirements down to a micron or lower. And this is before you think about F/1.4 or F/0.95 lenses.
A systematic error does mean an uneven mount (or mirror). You can rest assured that first surface mirrors are flatter than any mechanical device can measure. You can buy one that has a peak to valley flatness error of 30 nanometers on both sides with a few arcseconds of wedge for about $200. The flanges I would spitball are at least as not flat as 10 microns. Sony may actually be worse, you can feel the turning marks with a fingernail. That's closer to a thousandth and a half (35-40 microns), from the highly calibrated measurement device that is my hands.
A bright enough reflection off the sensor is more of a background level question. It can be as dark as you want if you can keep bright lights away from the measurement device. And if it is significantly larger than the flange, then the reflection intensity can be significantly lower and you still get equal total intensity.
You can buy annular mirrors. Search for "off-axis parabola with through hole." Doing it to a flat would be a little unusual, but nothing wrong with it and easier to do than an OAP. I think it costs much less than you think it does (well, depends how calibrated you are to what custom optics cost in the US).
Andre Yew ·
As you promised, this was a really interesting result for the photo cameras! Thanks for sharing it.
Also, how did the Nikons do?
Roger Cicala ·
Andre, Denz, being video oriented, doesn’t make an adapter for Nikon. We can test EF, FE, PL, and m4/3 with it.
Chaim Goldstein ·
Sounds like a job for a machine shop to make an adapter for you
Andre Yew ·
As you promised, this was a really interesting result for the photo cameras! Thanks for sharing it.
Also, how did the Nikons do?
Roger Cicala ·
Andre, Denz, being video oriented, doesn't make an adapter for Nikon. We can test EF, FE, PL, and m4/3 with it.
Chaim Goldstein ·
Sounds like a job for a machine shop to make an adapter for you
EVener ·
In a discussion of the tests on dpreview, I think it was Roger who linked to Kolar's disassembly of the Z6 and Z7: https://kolarivision.com/ni...
and Z7: https://kolarivision.com/ni...
Here are two quotes from Kolar's Z6 teardown:
"Now that the board is out of the camera and in a safe place, we can extract the exceptionally hefty screws holding the sensor assembly on its exceptionally hefty springs. Just look at the size of these guys."
"Another thing we noticed was how stiff the IBIS shaker seemed compared to those found in other cameras. It barely budges when pressure is applied, but it still boasts the same 5 stops of stabilization claimed by the A7 III."
Note: The Kolar teardown does not address the plastic plate which LensRentals found had cracked on the Sony cameras.
RandomCameraInfo ·
Sony quality at its finest… POS
Barbu Mateescu ·
While I’m not a Sony guy (used Canon for hundreds of thousands of pics, only dabbled a few thousand frames on Sony, but stopped 5 years ago), I should point out that you should wait for Canon IBIS camera results.
David Cartagena ·
Oh they are not the only company to make errors. So do Canon and Nikon and they probably have other places where they have weaknesses.
Tuolumne ·
Remember the Nikon D800 frame fracture issue – will total your camera.
Michael Clark ·
Or as Roger and Aaron used to say: “What do you call a D800 that needs a new sensor?”
“Parts.”
CA Geographer (near Roseville) ·
Remember the Nikon D800 frame fracture issue - will total your camera.
Michael Clark ·
Or as Roger and Aaron used to say: "What do you call a D800 that needs a new sensor?"
"Parts."
RandomCameraInfo ·
Sony quality at its finest... POS
Barbu Mateescu ·
While I'm not a Sony guy (used Canon for hundreds of thousands of pics, only dabbled a few thousand frames on Sony, but stopped 5 years ago), I should point out that you should wait for Canon IBIS camera results.
GerardoB ·
Does the back and forth travelling in the hands of the courier company play its part in the tear and wear? Surely some heavy drops can and will happen.
Roger Cicala ·
Gerardo, they definitely get dropped. We’ve spend years developing a pretty amazing packing system to offset those drops. But it’s certainly possible it contributes, because no packing system is perfect.
Roger Cicala ·
Gerardo, they definitely get dropped. We've spend years developing a pretty amazing packing system to offset those drops. But it's certainly possible it contributes, because no packing system is perfect.
Astro Landscapes ·
Having used LR at least a dozen times, I an say that I highly, highly doubt even Ace Ventura could do the same amount of damage to a lens or body mount that most “hardcore” photographers do once the two are attached and slung around their necks. Oh, and the funny stuff written on the tape is always entertaining, too.
Astro Landscapes ·
Having used LR at least a dozen times, I an say that I highly, highly doubt even Ace Ventura could do the same amount of damage to a lens or body mount that most "hardcore" photographers do once the two are attached and slung around their necks. Oh, and the funny stuff written on the tape is always entertaining, too.
Jim H ·
I see Ben has been promoted from “poor” Ben in your last article to plain old Ben. Does that mean a promotion or financial compensation for his hard work?
Roger Cicala ·
It’s a well-deserved status and emotional compensation, which I’m sure he finds superior to any mere financial incentives. (Sure means I didn’t ask him.)
Jim H ·
I see Ben has been promoted from "poor" Ben in your last article to plain old Ben. Does that mean a promotion or financial compensation for his hard work?
Roger Cicala ·
It's a well-deserved status and emotional compensation, which I'm sure he finds superior to any mere financial incentives. ('Sure' means I didn't ask him.)
RockerSpaniel ·
Cool! Am I the first one to comment?
Thanks for the – as always – interesting article (and fun to read, as always).
As I mentioned in the comments to your Cine camera flange distance post, flange distance is critical for lenses with floating elements. But: Are there any modern lenses with a floating element design?
Roger Cicala ·
I think there are a fair amount, really.
RockerSpaniel ·
Giving it a second thought I realise that it’s a rather silly question. Per definition – floating elements=groups move independently during focussing –, any internally focussing lens is actually a floating element design, correct? (Which means: pretty much any modern lens design)
Knowing that there is some variance in flange distance: Aren’t you curious whether this has an impact on performance of internally focussing lenses? And to what degree?
For legacy super wides it’s huge. Short adapter = lens reaches infinity when focussed to 2–3m = miserable corner performance. With a near correct flange distance (lens reaches infinity at the hard stop) the corners are far from great, but are somehow usable (vintage lens addicts might prefer “show lots of ‘character’ typical for Nikon/Canon/Pentax/Minolta designs from the ‘golden era’ of analogue photography).
RockerSpaniel ·
Cool! Am I the first one to comment?
Thanks for the – as always – interesting article (and fun to read, as always).
As I mentioned in the comments to your Cine camera flange distance post, flange distance is critical for lenses with floating elements. But: Are there any modern lenses with a floating element design?
Roger Cicala ·
I think there are a fair amount, really.
RockerSpaniel ·
Giving it a second thought I realise that it's a rather silly question. Per definition – floating elements=groups move independently during focussing –, any internally focussing lens is actually a floating element design, correct? (Which means: pretty much any modern lens design)
Knowing that there is some variance in flange distance: Aren't you curious whether this has an impact on performance of internally focussing lenses? And to what degree?
For legacy super wides it's huge. Short adapter = lens reaches infinity when focussed to 2–3m = miserable corner performance. With a near correct flange distance (lens reaches infinity at the hard stop) the corners are far from great, but are somehow usable (vintage lens addicts might prefer "show lots of 'character' typical for Nikon/Canon/Pentax/Minolta designs from the 'golden era' of analogue photography).
Marcio K ·
Sony cameras are somewhat prone to heat – maybe expansion by heat and contraction after could cause these fractures?
Roger Cicala ·
Marcio, that’s a good point. I would think plastic more resistant to heat, but I really have no idea what their composite is.
David Cartagena ·
Plastic have very low heat exchange rate and most plastic types can cope with 60 (PVC) to 100 degrees Celsius unless it’s PVDF or PTFE which they certainly did not use for this. I would guess it’s injection molded PA6 or maybe also an ESD type plast since it’s mounted at the sensor.
Marcio K ·
Sony cameras are somewhat prone to heat - maybe expansion by heat and contraction after could cause these fractures?
Roger Cicala ·
Marcio, that's a good point. I would think plastic more resistant to heat, but I really have no idea what their composite is.
David Cartagena ·
Plastic have very low heat exchange rate and most plastic types can cope with 60 (PVC) to 100 degrees Celsius unless it's PVDF or PTFE which they certainly did not use for this. I would guess it's injection molded PA6 or maybe also an ESD type plastic since it's at the sensor.
The_Incomparable_Douche ·
Great article, as usual!
There’s one thing I don’t understand. If the flange distance of a particular body is out of spec, what is the mechanism by which that variation affects PDAF? I would think that if the flange distance is off, then both the distance to the imaging sensor and the distance to the PDAF sensors would be off by the same amount, resulting in no error. I’m sure the reality is more subtle than this.
Roger Cicala ·
I don’t think it would affect PDAF because of distance, although it makes sense you might have to dial in more AF microadjust. But if the camera has on-sensor PDAF it seems a tilt could cause problems. If it has off-sensor PDAF (like most SLRs) then the sensor and PDAF sensor could lose calibration.
The_Incomparable_Douche ·
Great article, as usual!
There's one thing I don't understand. If the flange distance of a particular body is out of spec, what is the mechanism by which that variation affects PDAF? I would think that if the flange distance is off, then both the distance to the imaging sensor and the distance to the PDAF sensors would be off by the same amount, resulting in no error. I'm sure the reality is more subtle than this.
Roger Cicala ·
I don't think it would affect PDAF because of distance, although it makes sense you might have to dial in more AF microadjust. But if the camera has on-sensor PDAF it seems a tilt could cause problems. If it has off-sensor PDAF (like most SLRs) then the sensor and PDAF sensor could lose calibration.
hugh crawford ·
The original A7 had a rather wiggly lens mounting flange that people kept complaining about saying that it was weak and there were even aftermarket replacements for it.
I thought that having a deliberately weak spot in the mounting flange was an excellent idea but Sony made the flange firmer in the later cameras.
I guess Sony deserves praise for building in enough redundancy that literally breaking the camera won’t keep it from working more or less normally but I still thing that replacing the mounting flange would be easier and cheaper.
Astro Landscapes ·
Oh, I have videos of fellow wedding photographers who did ~6 months of work with their mk1 and mk2 generation A7’s mounted on monopods all day, and mounted by the body even when a 70-200 was attached, and then I reach out and jiggle the lens, and you can literally see the body mount itself flexing massively. And I have multiple videos of racking focus on Sony GM lenses that makes it look like they’re tilt-shift lenses, whether due to optical damage, or sensor/mount damage.
I wouldn’t touch a pre-mk3 gen Sony with a 10-ft pole, and even then, a Nikon Z body still seems to be made a whole lot beefier than the mk3 and mk4 gens.
Sony deserves praise for prioritizing the biggest problems that mirrorless faced at one time or another throughout the life of the E-mount, (terrible autofocus, terrible battery life, lackluster video specs) …and pouring all their R&D into those things, before worrying about “insignificant” stuff like ergonomics, menus, and build quality/QC.
Canon and Nikon still get credit for sticking with their M.O. of making (mostly) rock-solid cameras that just work.
hugh crawford ·
The original A7 had a rather wiggly lens mounting flange that people kept complaining about saying that it was weak and there were even aftermarket replacements for it.
I thought that having a deliberately weak spot in the mounting flange was an excellent idea but Sony made the flange firmer in the later cameras.
I guess Sony deserves praise for building in enough redundancy that literally breaking the camera won't keep it from working more or less normally but I still thing that replacing the mounting flange would be easier and cheaper.
Astro Landscapes ·
Oh, I have videos of fellow wedding photographers who did ~6 months of work with their mk1 and mk2 generation A7's mounted on monopods all day, and mounted by the body even when a 70-200 was attached, and then I reach out and jiggle the lens, and you can literally see the body mount itself flexing massively. And I have multiple videos of racking focus on Sony GM lenses that makes it look like they're tilt-shift lenses, whether due to optical damage, or sensor/mount damage.
I wouldn't touch a pre-mk3 gen Sony with a 10-ft pole, and even then, a Nikon Z body still seems to be made a whole lot beefier than the mk3 and mk4 gens.
Sony deserves praise for prioritizing the biggest problems that mirrorless faced at one time or another throughout the life of the E-mount, (terrible autofocus, terrible battery life, lackluster video specs) ...and pouring all their R&D into those things, before worrying about "insignificant" stuff like ergonomics, menus, and build quality/QC.
Canon and Nikon still get credit for sticking with their M.O. of making (mostly) rock-solid cameras that just work.
BlueBomberTurbo ·
The II already had a reinforced lens mount:
https://www.sony.com/image/...
Same as the III:
https://www.sony.com/image/...
The original A7 only had a small metal front plate that didn't include the grip, which was its undoing:
https://www.sony.com/image/...
The original A7R is what the A7 series has been based on ever since:
https://www.sony.com/image/...
Also note that the A7Rs since the II generation have had full metal bodies (front, top, back, internal reinforcement), matching the rigidity of the A9.
As far as the Z6, it's not really built any better or worse:
https://cdn-4.nikon-cdn.com...
Note that the rear plate isn't attached at all to the front, so it won't supply any additional rigidity to the mount or body as a whole, unlike the A7R/A9 series. It's just made of a more rigid material. The Z7 does not feature an upgraded chassis over the Z6.
But I wouldn't touch an A7 II because of the poor IQ and AF.
David Cartagena ·
Hi. Roger. Great work. I seriously think you should send Sony a SCAR (Supplier Corrective Action Request)
You are a big enough customer to do so.
Believe me SONY send lot’s of SCAR’s to their suppliers.
David Cartagena ·
Hi. Roger. Great work. I seriously think you should send Sony a SCAR (Supplier Corrective Action Request)
You are a big enough customer to do so.
Believe me SONY send lot's of SCAR's to their suppliers.
Andreas Werle ·
Thanks for this Roger!
Always a pleasure to read your posts. The Micro 4/3 Graphic has BTW an Error in the right numbers, must read 0.12 and 0.13 instead of 0.012 and 0.0.13.
Greetings Andy
Roger Cicala ·
Thanks, I’ll have to fix that tomorrow, but I’ll get to it.
dsut4393 ·
Ever get the feeling you’ve forgotten something?:)
Roger Cicala ·
I thought I remade the graph and replaced it? Or am I missing something else?
dsut4393 ·
Nothing else, just the graph showing 0.013 on the right hand end of the x axis.
Andreas Werle ·
Thanks for this Roger!
Always a pleasure to read your posts. The Micro 4/3 Graphic has BTW an Error in the right numbers, must read 0.12 and 0.13 instead of 0.012 and 0.0.13.
Greetings Andy
Roger Cicala ·
Thanks, I'll have to fix that tomorrow, but I'll get to it.
dsut4393 ·
Ever get the feeling you've forgotten something?:)
asad137 ·
FYI: There are quantitative ways to discern outliers in a distribution that are based on the distribution itself to eliminate the subjectivity above. I don’t know if your comment policy allows posting links, but if you google the “Interquartile Range Outlier Rule” or some variant of that, you can get the formula for one of the common ones. It should be very easy to calculate given your data.
Roger Cicala ·
It is, but in this case I was screening for cause. This started as a lark, but halfway through turned into ‘let’s see if this tool helps us find damage’.
David Bateman ·
Roger is almost using the thumb test for statistics. You can calculate the outliers and the S value.
However, this seems to match the thumb test almost exactly. You plot your data. Then place your thumb down on. Everything greater than your thumb is an outlier. That surprisingly works well and much easier to handle.
asad137 ·
FYI: There are quantitative ways to discern outliers in a distribution that are based on the distribution itself to eliminate the subjectivity above. I don't know if your comment policy allows posting links, but if you google the "Interquartile Range Outlier Rule" or some variant of that, you can get the formula for one of the common ones. It should be very easy to calculate given your data.
Roger Cicala ·
It is, but in this case I was screening for cause. This started as a lark, but halfway through turned into 'let's see if this tool helps us find damage'.
David Bateman ·
Roger is almost using the thumb test for statistics. You can calculate the outliers and the S value.
However, this seems to match the thumb test almost exactly. You plot your data. Then place your thumb down on. Everything greater than your thumb is an outlier. That surprisingly works well and much easier to handle.
Roger Backhouse ·
Could the sony problems be related to the sensor cleaning mechanism, which seems to shake the sensor very hard on bodies with IBIS? Could it mean the built in sensor cleaning should be used sparingly?
Roger Cicala ·
Roger, I don’t know. All we did this go around was find it; but I can’t say why it happens.
BlueBomberTurbo ·
Gotta admit it does a hell of a job, though. Never had an easier time getting dust off any camera’s sensor I’ve ever owned.
Roger Backhouse ·
Interesting, as that is not my experience at all, which is that I find dust on my Sony sensor far more often than on my MFT cameras. Perhaps I should use the cleaning function more often rather than opting for a blower.
BlueBomberTurbo ·
I’ve owned Nikon, Fuji, and Canon DSLRs, Panasonic, Canon, and non-IBIS Sony mirrorless, prior to the A7 III, and this is the only camera I haven’t had to wet clean a sensor on yet. I shoot mainly primes, so I do switch lenses a lot outdoors (lots of wildlife/landscape shooting), and I tend to get dust on sensors after a handful of outings.
geekyrocketguy ·
Comments here: interesting technical discussion and a decent number of subject-matter experts.
Comments on the DPR summary of this: cretins bashing Sony and spewing opinions directly contradictory to this article.
…The internet is a magical land.
Roger Cicala ·
I called it in the article. “I don’t know, but they don’t know. But they’re going to tell you anyway.” 🙂
Claudia Muster ·
If DPR titles: “Lensrentals discovers cracked sensor mounts inside some of its Sony a7-series rental fleet”, what do you expect from RH;PAC readers?
Fluffybun ·
It beggars belief…
…then I googled it. 🙁
geekyrocketguy ·
Comments here: interesting technical discussion and a decent number of subject-matter experts.
Comments on the DPR summary of this: cretins bashing Sony and spewing opinions directly contradictory to this article.
...The internet is a magical land.
Roger Cicala ·
I called it in the article. "I don't know, but they don't know. But they're going to tell you anyway." :-)
Claudia Muster ·
If DPR titles: "Lensrentals discovers cracked sensor mounts inside some of its Sony a7-series rental fleet", what do you expect from RH;PAC readers?
Fluffybun ·
It beggars belief...
...then I googled it. :-(
Ilya Zakharevich ·
Interesting findings, thanks!
As far as your 73, 74, 75, then 70, 69, 64 goes, it gives 100 times more hits on google than its random neighbors! How come that Marvel Christevan gets the same nick as some SHA signatures?
Ah: picking into the PDF file: HEXUNICODE!
??Posting it the first time, this was censored: “There was internal server error while processing your request ” Was this a trigger word?!
Roger Cicala ·
No trigger word, but we had some server issues today on several fronts. Tuan nailed the easter egg on the very first post (down below).
Ilya Zakharevich ·
Interesting findings, thanks!
As far as your 73, 74, 75, then 70, 69, 64 goes, it gives 100 times more hits on google than its random neighbors! How come that Marvel Christevan gets the same nick as some SHA signatures?
Ah: picking into the PDF file: HEXUNICODE!
Posting it the first time, this was censored: “There was internal server error while processing your request ” Was this a trigger word?!
Samuel Chia ·
Hey Roger, thanks for sharingbthis fascinating investigation. Quick question: if you flip the Sony IBIS cameras so that the mount’s side face down and LCD face up, do you notice a change in the flange distance? I heard from the guys at Kolari it does. Seems like the sensor mounting system prevents the sensor from moving rearwards but the magnets for IBIS are not strong enough to repel it from moving forwards.
Roger Cicala ·
I haven’t tried it, so I’ll defer to them on this one. We did them all sitting vertically (i.e. on their base) or with LCD side down.
Samuel Chia ·
Hey Roger, thanks for sharing this fascinating investigation. Quick question: if you flip the Sony IBIS cameras so that the mount's side face down and LCD face up, do you notice a change in the flange distance? I heard from the guys at Kolari it does. Seems like the sensor mounting system prevents the sensor from moving rearwards but the magnets for IBIS are not strong enough to prevent it from moving forwards.
Roger Cicala ·
I haven't tried it, so I'll defer to them on this one. We did them all sitting vertically (i.e. on their base) or with LCD side down.
Roger Cicala ·
Roger, I don't know. All we did this go around was find it; but I can't say why it happens.
peety3 ·
How much do you expect the manufacturers to find an actual repairable fault in a dropped camera if it were sent to them?
Roger Cicala ·
Given the number of times we know a camera has been dropped and find nothing wrong I would say the great majority of reported drops cause no damage. But there are so many variables: how far, what surface was it dropped on, what part of the camera or lens impacted, etc.
Class A ·
As soon as I think I calibrated my expectations towards Lens Rentals articles (“great!”), Roger takes it up a notch and impresses me all over again.
Class A ·
As soon as I think I calibrated my expectations towards Lens Rentals articles ("great!"), Roger takes it up a notch and impresses me all over again.
David Bateman ·
Roger I think you found an Easter egg inside m43rds we didn’t know.
Olympus was founded in 1919. Thus 100 year anniversary was last year.
It actually makes some sense for them to use a flange back distance of 19.19 to celebrate their founding.
Not sure where 19.25mm came from. I think it was an early assumption based on user measurements.
Glen Barrington ·
People have been predicting Olympus’ immediate demise since 1925.
Roger ·
And now it happened (at least as a camera company)
Glen Barrington ·
Yeah, it caught a lot of us off guard. This stuff happens. But the cameras will continue to operate, as will I (I hope!) I don’t know what will happen in the future, but I suspect the future will take care of itself. It always has in the past!
LOL! all those people had to be right eventually!
Glen Barrington ·
Yeah, it caught a lot of us off guard. This stuff happens. But the cameras will continue to operate, as will I (I hope!) I don't know what will happen in the future, but I suspect the future will take care of itself. It always has in the past!
LOL! all those people had to be right eventually!
David Bateman ·
Roger I think you found an Easter egg inside m43rds we didn't know.
Olympus was founded in 1919. Thus 100 year anniversary was last year.
It actually makes some sense for them to use a flange back distance of 19.19 to celebrate their founding.
Not sure where 19.25mm came from. I think it was an early assumption based on user measurements.
Glen Barrington ·
People have been predicting Olympus' immediate demise since 1925.
JJ ·
Thanks for an excellent article!
Sony cameras have a Cleaning Mode.
The IBIS shakes the sensor quite fast and tries to get rid of any dust.
Do you think it may cause fractures in a sensor mount?
Roger Cicala ·
It certainly seems logical that it could contribute. But at this point I can’t say why with any certainty. Several engineers have suggested heat contributes, I wonder if physical cleaning also does. But the very fast vibration of IBIS and as you mention cleaning mode, seem like the most likely thing to me. But that’s my educated guess, and we’ve seen how often my educated guesses are wrong.
JJ ·
Thanks for an excellent article!
Sony cameras have a Cleaning Mode.
The IBIS shakes the sensor quite fast and tries to get rid of any dust.
Do you think it may cause fractures in a sensor mount?
Roger Cicala ·
It certainly seems logical that it could contribute. But at this point I can't say why with any certainty. Several engineers have suggested heat contributes, I wonder if physical cleaning also does. But the very fast vibration of IBIS and as you mention cleaning mode, seem like the most likely thing to me. But that's my educated guess, and we've seen how often my educated guesses are wrong.
Paul Hennell ·
(Maybe Sony users are more careful. Maybe lighter cameras drop better. I don’t know. I doubt you do, either. But I’m sure someone is going to start a thread with “Cicala shows Sony users never drop cameras.”)
I don’t know true. But one of us is sitting on data showing which camera / camera lens combos are dropped more often or sustain most damage when dropped…
My assumption would be that the weight of lighter cameras makes them less likely to be dropped, rather than survive better if they are dropped – but it could also be that the balance point of lens to body means it’s less likely to land in a damaging way Vs DSLR bodies and their heavier lenses.
dsut4393 ·
I had another take – many of the out of spec Canon cameras had been returned with the renter admitting they had been dropped. The Sony users probably dropped just as many, but weren’t honest enough to own up to it.
[Joking – data on “I dropped the camera” rental return rate wasn’t presented – in the absence of data, we can make our hypotheses are wild as we like 🙂 ]
Paul Hennell ·
(Maybe Sony users are more careful. Maybe lighter cameras drop better. I don’t know. I doubt you do, either. But I’m sure someone is going to start a thread with “Cicala shows Sony users never drop cameras.”)
I don't know true. But one of us is sitting on data showing which camera / camera lens combos are dropped more often or sustain most damage when dropped...
My assumption would be that the weight of lighter cameras makes them less likely to be dropped, rather than survive better if they are dropped - but it could also be that the balance point of lens to body means it's less likely to land in a damaging way Vs DSLR bodies and their heavier lenses.
dsut4393 ·
I had another take - many of the out of spec Canon cameras had been returned with the renter admitting they had been dropped. The Sony users probably dropped just as many, but weren't honest enough to own up to it.
[Joking - data on "I dropped the camera" rental return rate wasn't presented - in the absence of data, we can make our hypotheses are wild as we like :) ]
Carl A. Adams ·
I don’t know about Easter egg, but I read your formula for wrongness as “wise ass”
Carl A. Adams ·
I don't know about Easter egg, but I read your formula for wrongness as "wise ass"
trenzterra ·
I’m just wondering if it would be possible to measure flange to sensor distance from the left side and right side as well? I’ve come across the same make of camera performing slightly differently when using the same lens. E.g. on Camera A, the IQ on the left side of the lens can appear slightly blurred/ out of focal plane but then on the right side its sharp, whereas on Camera B it can be sharp to sharp throughout. Whereas on Lens B, Camera A could be perfectly sharp throughout and Camera B could have one side of the lens being slightly blurred or out of the focal plane.
I’ve noticed this previously with the a6500 and then the a7iii. Was wondering how much of a “side to side” variation the typical camera has.
Roger Cicala ·
That’s a very real thing, but we don’t have the technology to measure it in large numbers.
trenzterra ·
I'm just wondering if it would be possible to measure flange to sensor distance from the left side and right side as well? I've come across the same make of camera performing slightly differently when using the same lens. E.g. on Camera A, the IQ on the left side of the lens can appear slightly blurred/ out of focal plane but then on the right side its sharp, whereas on Camera B it can be sharp to sharp throughout. Whereas on Lens B, Camera A could be perfectly sharp throughout and Camera B could have one side of the lens being slightly blurred or out of the focal plane.
I've noticed this previously with the a6500 and then the a7iii. Was wondering how much of a "side to side" variation the typical camera has.
Roger Cicala ·
That's a very real thing, but we don't have the technology to measure it in large numbers.
David Cartagena ·
The well known war photographer Jan Grarup has used Sony a7II and a9 for a long time and they survived pretty well.
https://www.google.com/sear...
https://images.app.goo.gl/q...
https://images.app.goo.gl/U...
https://youtu.be/OmNu_Cjv2oc
Philip ·
Hi, Well Great test, and one more thing to enter into the equation when using adapted lens to the Canons (and all SLR) and getting mirror slap, I have found sometime just changing the adapter can make a difference. Now I’ll have to think about the lens mount, also there is the camera mount on the lens itself. Microns, microns, and more microns, start to add up.
dsut4393 ·
If the errors are random, you need to add more of them, then they will average out to zero 🙂
Michael Clark ·
Sometimes. Statistically speaking, there will be some cases where the errors compound.
Philip ·
Hi, Well Great test, and one more thing to enter into the equation when using adapted lens to the Canons (and all SLR) and getting mirror slap, I have found sometime just changing the adapter can make a difference. Now I'll have to think about the lens mount, also there is the camera mount on the lens itself. Microns, microns, and more microns, start to add up.
dsut4393 ·
If the errors are random, you need to add more of them, then they will average out to zero :)
LensHead ·
Roger and team, thanks for this amazing work, very appreciated. It must have been a lot of hours of mind numbing work!
The only thing I guess is not addressed in the article for obvious reasons, do you think you can speculate as to the cause of the Sony IBIS mount failures? That part does not seem to be under stress from what I can see in the photos, unless it moves too freely and hits the surrounding parts (which brings up other uncomfortable questions). What do you think? Too tight screws? Bad plastics? Bad assembly? Broken from day 1 in the assembly line? Mount/housing flex? Hard drops? Do you think you can statistically correlate with the lenses lent with those affected cameras?
Roger Cicala ·
At this point, I can only speculate. We see the location of breaks, but there are so many variables for causation. Probably a combination of things.
LensHead ·
Roger and team, thanks for this amazing work, very appreciated. It must have been a lot of hours of mind numbing work!
The only thing I guess is not addressed in the article for obvious reasons, do you think you can speculate as to the cause of the Sony IBIS mount failures? That part does not seem to be under stress from what I can see in the photos, unless it moves too freely and hits the surrounding parts (which brings up other uncomfortable questions). What do you think? Too tight screws? Bad plastics? Bad assembly? Broken from day 1 in the assembly line? Mount/housing flex? Hard drops? Do you think you can statistically correlate with the lenses lent with those affected cameras?
David Cartagena ·
To put things in perspective.
The well known war photographer Jan Grarup has used Sony a7II and a9 for a long time and they survived pretty well.
You can search for “Krigsfotografen” a film about him and see what his cameras has to survive. Btw. He also uses Leica and Fujifilm.
He said he freaking love Sony a9 and Fujifilm GFX50R
Brandon Dube ·
Let me submit this anecdote to the scientific journals real quick
David Cartagena ·
Wow what an attitude Mr. Dube…Read my comment for what it is…I am sorry if I insulted you.
Brandon Dube ·
I’m not insulted, I just wanted to make a tongue in cheek remark with some levity that presented with statistics, some reach for stories of “so and so didn’t have problems.” The relevance is fairly low, to me.
David Cartagena ·
Wow what an attitude Mr. Dube...Read my comment for what it is...I am sorry if I insulted you.
Brandon Dube ·
I'm not insulted, I just wanted to make a tongue in cheek remark with some levity that presented with statistics, some reach for stories of "so and so didn't have problems." The relevance is fairly low, to me.
David Cartagena ·
To put things in perspective.
The well known war photographer Jan Grarup has used Sony a7II and a9 for a long time and they survived pretty well.
You can search for "Krigsfotografen" a film about him and see what his cameras has to survive. Btw. He also uses Leica and Fujifilm.
He said he freaking love Sony a9 and Fujifilm GFX50R
editorsteve ·
Well done! Well explained! And, like me, you shoot Pentax! My K-1 and some of the 50-year-old lenses I use do need micro-adjusting. Small downside, especially considering that I often use them in rough weather.
Seriously, I’ve taught journalism AND experimental design and QA/QC at top universities, have written books and ASTM protocols. You rock. Keep it up.
editorsteve ·
Well done! Well explained! And, like me, you shoot Pentax! My K-1 and some of the 50-year-old lenses I use do need micro-adjusting. Small downside, especially considering that I often use them in rough weather.
Seriously, I've taught journalism AND experimental design and QA/QC at top universities, have written books and ASTM protocols. You rock. Keep it up.
ProfHankD ·
Well, this is a wow! However, the main take-away message for me is really WRT to the depressing data in https://wordpress.lensrenta... . What you've just proven is that in normal use, cameras and/or their users magically compensate for a multitude of sins in terms of lens and sensor alignment and spacing. I've long been a believer in this particular form of magic. Very seriously broken camera equipment often doesn't reveal how broken it is until one does careful tests or examines the hardware in detail; I'd even cite your https://www.lensrentals.com... as another example of this same principle.
Astro Landscapes ·
“Seems a little soft on one side”…
Ahh, the life of a nightscape photographer. I thought I was going crazy when huge shifts in the plane of focus would be present at times, and then be gone the next. (Of course, after some hand-held IBIS-on shooting, that is.)
This actually was indeed the case with the Sony 24 GM on an A7R III, almost all the astro-landscape photos were perfectly flat-field, but some timelapse sequences showed a noticeable difference on the right edge of the frame.
I haven’t had this problem with the EOS R or RP, haha! Dang IBIS. I hope the EOS R5 has beefy IBIS like the Nikons do. And I hope Canon has an RF 24 L or 20 L up their sleeves, too!
geekyrocketguy ·
I think this may also partly be due to the “depth of field” of a bent plane of focus. If you place it right, you don’t notice the softness.
Astro Landscapes ·
"Seems a little soft on one side"...
Ahh, the life of a nightscape photographer. I thought I was going crazy when huge shifts in the plane of focus would be present at times, and then be gone the next. (Of course, after some hand-held IBIS-on shooting, that is.)
This actually was indeed the case with the Sony 24 GM on an A7R III, almost all the astro-landscape photos were perfectly flat-field, but some timelapse sequences showed a noticeable difference on the right edge of the frame.
I haven't had this problem with the EOS R or RP, haha! Dang IBIS. I hope the EOS R5 has beefy IBIS like the Nikons do. And I hope Canon has an RF 24 L or 20 L up their sleeves, too!
geekyrocketguy ·
I think this may also partly be due to the "depth of field" of a bent plane of focus. If you place it right, you don't notice the softness.
Astro Landscapes ·
BTW, trigger warning, Roger: https://drive.google.com/op...
Athanasius Kirchner ·
This is all fascinating! I’m tempted to open up my A7RM2 now, and check its IBIS system and lens mount. I feel like it’s consistently softer on the left side – maybe it has a small misalignment.
Your results go quite in line with what is my experience, though, that Sony cameras are quite robust and seem to be built to just work even with some damage. Removing entire modules is no problem for them, as long as the sensor and main board are still in place.
Athanasius Kirchner ·
This is all fascinating! I’m tempted to open up my A7RM2 now, and check its IBIS system and lens mount. I feel like it’s consistently softer on the left side - maybe it has a small misalignment.
Your results go quite in line with what is my experience, though, that Sony cameras are quite robust and seem to be built to just work even with some damage. Removing entire modules is no problem for them, as long as the sensor and main board are still in place.
Vladimir Gorbunov ·
Dear Roger, thank you for this article, it's awesome, and I could only wish the official service centers had such a useful tool.
Speaking of IBIS failures. Have you ever seen this kind of sensor shaking?
https://youtu.be/K0DjIQfyJEA
Mine was fixed in 1 business day under warranty, and I can only wonder, what actually happened to my camera. Others with same failure are often charged $500 for repair.
Shane Castle ·
WRT the time-pressed reader abbreviations: How about some for the current fad of putting your “article” in the form of a video, which is almost invariably full of useless chatter, obvious comments, and low content level? I am already using TL;DV (too long;didn’t view).
Roger Cicala ·
LOVE IT!!! I don’t do many videos; I can read the info in an article in 1/3 the time.
Tuolumne ·
I hate videos unless they show something that *needs* to be shown in video form (which could be informational, amazing to see, or funny). A talking head holding a piece of equipment and glibly talking about it provides far lower information density than text accompanied by well-chosen photos and diagrams, except in unusual cases.
Olandese Volante ·
I hereby propose: HV;WMT (have viewed, wasted my time).
Shane Castle ·
WRT the time-pressed reader abbreviations: How about some for the current fad of putting your "article" in the form of a video, which is almost invariably full of useless chatter, obvious comments, and low content level? I am already using TL;DV (too long;didn't view).
Roger Cicala ·
LOVE IT!!! I don't do many videos; I can read the info in an article in 1/3 the time.
CA Geographer (near Roseville) ·
I hate videos unless they show something that *needs* to be shown in video form (which could be informational, amazing to see, or funny). A talking head holding a piece of equipment and glibly talking about it provides far lower information density than text accompanied by well-chosen photos and diagrams, except in unusual cases.
Tarek ·
Wow! Amazing work. Thanks Roger. Sony take note!
Tord55 ·
Roger,
Your blog is always full of knowledge, and told in an entertaining way — wish more of us had the ability to do that!
Anyway:
These problems must be even more pronounced with DSLRs (and SLRs) as the mirror might be out of position and the AF sensor might also be out of whack (i.e. can that be recalibrated?)!
Is it always enough to readjust the mirror in those cases?!
I use a mix of Nikon 1 and F Mount cameras, and they sure get bumped occasionally, unavoidable. Recently, I have felt the need to AF-adjust my D7500 when using my beloved Sigma 135/1.8 Art (-13) and my Sigma 100-400 C (-4 @ 400mm). Improved a lot at infinity after that.
As I use the lenses on other cameras using Sigmas dock wasn’t an option. And I have not noticed any issues when using my old D600 or the D3300!
Tord55 ·
Roger,
Your blog is always full of knowledge, and told in an entertaining way — wish more of us had the ability to do that!
Anyway:
These problems must be even more pronounced with DSLRs (and SLRs) as the mirror might be out of position and the AF sensor might also be out of whack (i.e. can that be recalibrated?)!
Is it always enough to readjust the mirror in those cases?!
I use a mix of Nikon 1 and F Mount cameras, and they sure get bumped occasionally, unavoidable. Recently, I have felt the need to AF-adjust my D7500 when using my beloved Sigma 135/1.8 Art (-13) and my Sigma 100-400 C (-4 @ 400mm). Improved a lot at infinity after that.
As I use the lenses on other cameras using Sigmas dock wasn't an option. And I have not noticed any issues when using my old D600 or the D3300!
padam ·
The Panasonic S1 series and Nikon Z6 or Z7.
They seem to be constructed well from the teardowns, but what about them, do they also have less flange distance variations?
Roger Cicala ·
Don’t know. Can’t measure those mounts.
padam ·
The Panasonic S1 series and Nikon Z6 or Z7.
They seem to be constructed well from the teardowns, but what about them, do they also have less flange distance variations?
Roger Cicala ·
Don't know. Can't measure those mounts.
BlueBomberTurbo ·
Gotta admit it does a hell of a job, though. Never had an easier time getting dust off any camera's sensor I've ever owned.
scit aliquid ·
Thank you Roger, and your team, for doing this project and alerting us to the cracks in the machinery.
It was bad enough when I knew that if I buy lenses, I would have to check for DeCentered and Tilted lens elements, but now I have to also wonder if a camera body costing thousands has cracks in a vital system. Yes, I read the part about it not having a large effect yet, but in something costing thousands, it is still offensive to me as a hobbyist and consumer.
It just makes me feel that I would rather spend my money on rental fees from your company and let your team use all your expensive test gear to verify that the units I am renting are in good condition. The rest of the time I’ll just use a point and shoot or cellphone with suitable lower expectations.
I cannot fathom why companies feel it is okay to sell things costing thousands, and not QA/QC them thoroughly.
Too much time and money is spent on gadgeting up what they sell and not enough on testing basic functioning.
Marty Forscher’s comment about the Nikon F being a hockey puck that could take pictures still resonates with me.
scit aliquid ·
Thank you Roger, and your team, for doing this project and alerting us to the cracks in the machinery.
It was bad enough when I knew that if I buy lenses, I would have to check for DeCentered and Tilted lens elements, but now I have to also wonder if a camera body costing thousands has cracks in a vital system. Yes, I read the part about it not having a large effect yet, but in something costing thousands, it is still offensive to me as a hobbyist and consumer.
It just makes me feel that I would rather spend my money on rental fees from your company and let your team use all your expensive test gear to verify that the units I am renting are in good condition. The rest of the time I'll just use a point and shoot or cellphone with suitable lower expectations.
I cannot fathom why companies feel it is okay to sell things costing thousands, and not QA/QC them thoroughly.
Too much time and money is spent on gadgeting up what they sell and not enough on testing basic functioning.
Marty Forscher's comment about the Nikon F being a hockey puck that could take pictures still resonates with me.
John ·
So, is there a way for a casual photographer to figure out if there is something wrong as described with their equipment? Seems like the only way to discover any issues is by opening it completely or purchasing expensive measuring equipment.
Roger Cicala ·
Not that I can think of, with any absolute certainty.
Joel Sciamma ·
A very interesting analysis and a great read Roger, thank you. Ben, I salute you.
As we are down in the microns with these measurements, temperature is likely to play a significant part. At what temperature were these measurements performed and was there a significant spread of temperatures across the sample set?
That might be an interesting additional test to see if there are shifts in the sensor-flange distance across the working temperature of the equipment for a few representative samples. A photographer who goes from a warm to a cold environment for example just might see the effects.
Sorry to be picky but it would be handy to label the axes of the graphs, both for instant comprehension and for when they are lifted and used elsewhere with no explanation given as to what they mean. I would probably label the X-axis in microns rather than fractions of a mm to make it more readable.
Roger Cicala ·
Hi Joel,
Everything was measured at 72F, and all cameras had been in that environment for at least 24 hours before measurement.
Joel Sciamma ·
Thanks Roger.
Joel Sciamma ·
A very interesting analysis and a great read Roger, thank you. Ben, I salute you.
As we are down in the microns with these measurements, temperature is likely to play a significant part. At what temperature were these measurements performed and was there a significant spread of temperatures across the sample set?
That might be an interesting additional test to see if there are shifts in the sensor-flange distance across the working temperature of the equipment for a few representative samples. A photographer who goes from a warm to a cold environment for example just might see the effects.
Sorry to be picky but it would be handy to label the axes of the graphs, both for instant comprehension and for when they are lifted and used elsewhere with no explanation given as to what they mean. I would probably label the X-axis in microns rather than fractions of a mm to make it more readable.
Roger Cicala ·
Hi Joel,
Everything was measured at 72F, and all cameras had been in that environment for at least 24 hours before measurement.
Joel Sciamma ·
Thanks Roger.
BlueBomberTurbo ·
I've owned Nikon, Fuji, and Canon DSLRs, Panasonic, Canon, and non-IBIS Sony mirrorless, prior to the A7 III, and this is the only camera I haven't had to wet clean a sensor on yet. I shoot mainly primes, so I do switch lenses a lot outdoors (lots of wildlife/landscape shooting), and I tend to get dust on sensors after a handful of outings.
Chris ·
Excellent article. I learned quite a bit, and was thoroughly intrigued by your findings. It sounds to me like your investigation of these variances was a useful and productive exercise.
Ad ·
Might have missed it, but as a Sony A7R4 owner I’d like to know if you came across broken parts in the sensor assembly of an A7R4. Recently I bought the Zeiss Batis 2/40 which gives me sharpness across the frame at even the larger apertures, so I’m not too worried for my sample.
Roger Cicala ·
I believe one or two of the ones we found were A7rIV.
Ad ·
Might have missed it, but as a Sony A7R4 owner I'd like to know if you came across broken parts in the sensor assembly of an A7R4. Recently I bought the Zeiss Batis 2/40 which gives me sharpness across the frame at even the larger apertures, so I'm not too worried for my sample.
Not THAT Ross Cameron ·
Many thanks for introducing a new unit of measurement, although my mind first went all Monty Python and wanted to call it a Woger – Woger’s Internet Wrongness Unit, or a WIWU.
Does this mean we need to update the quote by Harlan Ellison that the two most common elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity… Or shall we leave that for real life and introduce one just for virtual reality?
And lastly, because I’m tired and still want to get out a lamer joke than Roger, it begs the question, can two wogers of wrongfulness make it write.
In all seriousness – love the article, thanks for putting the rona time to such good use, and for keeping staff employed. Keep it up!
Roger Cicala ·
HAHAHHA!!! Made my day. I like Woger. But once you went there, I kept saying it in Elmer Fudd’s voice, like “I’m hunting wily wabbits”
Not THAT Ross Cameron ·
Many thanks for introducing a new unit of measurement, although my mind first went all Monty Python and wanted to call it a Woger - Woger’s Internet Wrongness Unit, or a WIWU.
Does this mean we need to update the quote by Harlan Ellison that the two most common elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity... Or shall we leave that for real life and introduce one just for virtual reality?
And lastly, because I’m tired and still want to get out a lamer joke than Roger, it begs the question, can two wogers of wrongfulness make it write.
In all seriousness - love the article, thanks for putting the rona time to such good use, and for keeping staff employed. Keep it up!
Roger Cicala ·
HAHAHHA!!! Made my day. I like Woger. But once you went there, I kept saying it in Elmer Fudd's voice, like "I'm hunting wily wabbits"
Dave ·
Thank you for this deep detailed analysis! Roger, that problem with the Sony IBIS system and the induced possiblity that one side of the picture is less sharp than the other, will it also occur, if you switch of the IBIS system and use the camera on a tripod for example?
Roger Cicala ·
Hi Dave,
I don’t know the answer to that. We’re at the stage of having just discovered this; exploring it will take some time.
Roger Cicala ·
Hi Dave,
I don't know the answer to that. We're at the stage of having just discovered this; exploring it will take some time.
Franz Graphstill ·
Roger – have you provided feedback to Sony about the sensor to IBIS mount?
Roger Cicala ·
I did 10 days before we published. Had a lot more contact since we’ve published, daily in fact.
Franz Graphstill ·
Roger - have you provided feedback to Sony about the sensor to IBIS mount?
Roger Cicala ·
I did 10 days before we published. Had a lot more contact since we've published, daily in fact.
Rogério Peccioli ·
Why haven’t you tested Nikon?
Roger Cicala ·
AS mentioned earlier in the comments, because Denz doesn’t make a Nikon tester.
Rogério Peccioli ·
Why haven't you tested Nikon?
Roger Cicala ·
AS mentioned earlier in the comments, because Denz doesn't make a Nikon tester.
donald alice ·
Is this for real about the genital herpes cure with the herbalist??? I have been suffering from this pain in the ass virus for the past 10 years and I have been constantly hoping, praying and researching for a cure and I have gotten to a point where Ive lost more hope as the years went by without any medical breakthroughs .I was infected when I starting dating a woman I met while on vacation in the summer of 2009 which quickly became my girlfriend and she never told me she had genital herpes..I never found out if she contracted the virus before we met which is what I personally believe happened or did she contract from someone else while we were dating, which at that point it really didn’t matter because it wasn’t going to change the fact that I now had the virus.. I definitely know that it wasn’t me because I didn’t cheat on her and I was also tested and was negative for everything not long before we met, but all I know is that we were intimate for 8 months without any problems until one day in the spring of 2010 while sitting in class I started experiencing severe symptoms out of nowhere..I obviously went directly to my doctor and got tested and within 2 weeks I received the positive results which really affected me in a way I couldn’t even put in words but it was part of the reason I started abusing substances for some time back then. I was even in denial before and after I received the results trying to convince myself that maybe there was a mistake with the testing.her reaction to the entire thing is what made me believe that she knew she had it and just didn’t tell me..regardless We stayed together until 2012 even though I never forgave her and always carried resentment for what she did. since then she moved onto more victims which I despise her for not learning from her actions..I have avoided dating and sexual contact because I just couldn’t do what she did and give someone an incurable virus. So I’m 36 now and I gave up on romance, marriage, and having kids. Honestly I have kept my diagnosis a secret from everyone for the past 10 years except obviously the woman who gave it to me so excuse me that I told you the entire story but this is the first time I mention it to anyone and it’s a relief to get this off my chest.I have tried looking up and signing up for clinical trials hoping that whatever drug was being tested could be the one to cure this virus but it just didn’t work out..so at this point I’m up for trying an alternative method of treatment for this virus that basically ruined my life..please reply to me if there is anything more I may need to know..if your recommendation helps me get my old life back I will be forever indebted to you..thank you and sorry for rambling on.. Dr Joe I contact him through drjoehome@gmail.com and use his natural medicine to get rid of this virus contact his WhatsApp +2348155730398 ,
krb ·
More expensive cameras like the 1dx have more expensive, much heavier glass attached, so it makes sense that they are more out of spec.
scht ggl ·
RB;GB
Kelli Williams ·
Roger, well written! An FA-II system will use a laser sensor mounted to the traverse. It continually references the distances from the spool core to the highest point. This is where the wire or similar materials will be spooled. A flange-detecting system can be used to detect the flange position on spools.
Nidhin Chandran ·
This is an amazing article and it explains why my Sony A9II can’t get the entire night sky in focus. The stars in and around the focus area are rendered sharp with the rest exhibiting a weird blur. I tried stopping down and tried multiple lenses with virtually no change in the result.
I haven’t measured the offset, but I believe its on the higher side so much so that I expect that one of the IBIS mounts could be broken.
Now before I send the camera off to Sony, I was wondering if anyone knows what could be the cost of repair in France for such an issue? The camera is 2.5years old and out of Sony warranty.
Thank you in advance for your reply.
Nidhin Chandran ·
This is an amazing article and it explains why my Sony A9II can't get the entire night sky in focus. The stars in and around the focus area are rendered sharp with the rest exhibiting a weird blur. I tried stopping down and tried multiple lenses with virtually no change in the result.
I haven't measured the offset, but I believe its on the higher side so much so that I expect that one of the IBIS mounts could be broken.
Now before I send the camera off to Sony, I was wondering if anyone knows what could be the cost of repair in France for such an issue? The camera is 2.5years old and out of Sony warranty.
Thank you in advance for your reply.